D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Here is my D-Bot!

First of all, a BIG thanks to Cfeniak for his C-bot, to Spauda01 for the D-bot and his awesome build guide, and a special thanks to TheLost for his help about raspberry.

Setup:
-Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4, one DRV8825 for Z axis, and 3 A4988
-Marlin RC8
-Nema 17 ref : 17HS19-2004S1
-Raspberry 3 and 7" Touchscreen
-Octoprint
-Titan extruder and E3Dv6
-300x300mm aluminium bed with 220V silicon heater (SSR DC to AC)
-ATX PSU
-Auto level with Bl-Touch
-Adjustable belt tensionner
-Auto Shutdown Modification

I have printed the first parts in PETg with my customized DIY PrintRite, then as soon as I have been able to use the D-bot I printed parts in ABS.

I also used this handy things :
-Adjustable bed holders from NickRimmer
-2020 Nozzle Rack from Walter
-the perfect Raspberry Pi 7" touchscreen case from KDan
-the E3D Titan carriage for D-Bot from dorsai3d, which I finally remixed for my own use...
-and the refered to the quantumrevolution's auto shut down to make one too.

About my remixed and personnal parts, I will post them day after day in this collection.

Edit 04/06/17
At begin I followed the build guide at the letter, but when I add the Bl-Touch, the auto-level pointed out the small shift of the bed when direction was reversed on Z axis. After some different tests and setups, it appears to me that the solution was to use the weight of the bed to kill that small shift, so I tryed to put the lead screws behind. It solved the auto-level issues, but it increase the ringing effect...
Then I tryed another idea which was to use the original motor mount V-slot as the front bed holder. It seems to me to be necessary for an heavie bed. Then as wheel guide I designed wheel guides that use only 2 wheels at each bed's corners and tensionners. The tensionners works a treat, it definitly kills the ringing, and can also be use to level bed's front and back side. Most important thing before to build the bed is to be sure that verticals V-slot are perfectly parallele and all the frame well tight. The tensionners works so well that I really recommand to use PC wheels, the black wheels will be damage by the pressure.

I definitly love this printer, it works a treat and it is very quiet.
I had a LOT of fun to build it, the Spauda's build guide is a real jewel!
The only thing I would change if I had/have to do it again ; I will use V wheels instead of mini V wheels. Not because of the wheels itself, but because of the bearings it uses, the small bearings for mini V wheels are easily damageable and it can act on the print quality...

I consider that I finished my build but there is still 2 tings i'd like to do ; first change the webcam (not happy w/ the C170) and also find a way to control the power through octoprint (the 5Vsb of my ATX is not enough to power the raspberry so I'll probably add a DC/DC relay to power the 12V with 5V) (done).

Cheers