Creality K1 MAX Full Linear Mod (LiDAR and CFS compatibile) - No Root Needed!

I assume gantry alignment issue.
Try to set the belt tension when gantry is locked in the center front.

Okay, wie stark sollen die Riemen gespannt werden?

Check Radi Sorin design for belt tension tool.

In that case I can make it 50% discounted.
Please me via e-mail: lashigt@gmail

If You have just 1% of dimensions accuracy, there shouldn’t be an issue.
You can also try reducing infill but then increase walls to allow heated insert to be well attached

I'll give it a go if I have issues, normally I do 4-5 walls with 30% infill for these kind of prints but I followed your recommended settings in the pdf and this was the result.

Hi, I just have added my config file as a reference to the design. I have LDO-42STH48-2504MAC and 20T Toothed Gears. I hope that will help You to make proper adjustments to printer.cfg

Thank you very much, I will add the
LDO-42STH48-2504MAC
to my k1max

Hi, the difference is that stepper mount require changes in printer.cfg
I recommend to use stepper mount no root.

thank you!!

sorry for all the questions but, what ones are in your g-code? i would rather use your g-code cause when i set all mine up i get a 13 hour print and your g-code is 6 1/2 hours lol

I would recommend to print those in smaller batches just in case some element will cause problems. Print time depends from many variables such as positioning and other process parameters. You can always look on the gcode and match the positioning of the parts.

You need MGN12H

Appreciate it!

Hi,
Cutter block must be mounted as shown in the photos, please look in pdf file.
It is mounted with 3 bolts same as the tensioner cover.

thank you

Good to hear that ;)
Have a nice prints, and thanks for Your findings.

Hi, Yes You can leave 1st versions of stepper mounts. Im running those currently and it can be seen in the pictures. Difference with those is a cut at the top where the stepper axis is ed by a bearing. The only thing that needs to be modified or reprinted is carriage. In my case I have just cuted off excess material using preheated knife - that’s simplest solution. It’s described in manual. First before installing CFS upgrade kit You need to print at least Cutter_block and the bumper. Cutter block is simple to mount, just about 3 bolts. Bumper is prepared to be sticked on the back of an extruder stepper with double sided tape. Then update the firmware I recommend that ending .27.
In my case I have LDO’s (0.9deg/step) so I had to make changes to printer.cfg but only according to that - no other changes is neede if You have stock motors.

Also what printer,cfg changes required for LDO 42STH48-2504MAC?

Hi, sorry for late reply, but I was a bit busy with CFS update.
Now I can answer and confirm that You need
2x Idler Gear 20T (toothed pulley)
4x Flanged bearings F623Z 3x10x4 (described in manual with photo attached
2x Adjustable Gear 20T (5mm inner hole - same as stepper axis diameter)
6x Idler Pulley smooth (size same as idler gear 20T) with 3mm inner hole*
2x Idler Pulley smooth (size same as idler gear 20T) with 5mm inner hole.

*-You can also use those from the stock stepper assembly/those are the same

About printer.cfg I’ll add my printer.cfg file to a design with LDO changes marked as comments, when I’ll get back home.

No worries regardign response, I was also waiting for your CFS updates before printing, thanks for your hard work!

I have the newer k1 max with the smaller tooth motors if that makes any difference

Hi, sorry for late reply, I was busy with CFS update. About your questions, it’s perfect that You have newer design with 20T gears on the motors. Then You don’t need to make root and modify printer.cfg.
The problem is older design because then It needs to be changed to 20T and some adjustment needs to be done to printer.cfg to match new ratios (step/distance).
About, the stock gears on the steppers, those are “hot mounted”. Those should fit with the mod as it is. But some of You had those mounted on different height by the factory and then it might be hard to align those with new stepper mounts. That’s why I have added adjustable gears. If You would encounter that issues the old ones needs to be demounted or cutter off from the stepper shaft and replaced by adjustable ones.
Same story is with a LDO’s if someone wants to replace them also.

The mgn12H carriage seems catch on the left side and does not allow the carriage to go back all the way

I was able to solve this by slightly clearancing the purge chute where it mounts to the Z rod

The carriage also needs just under 1 cm of clearance for the cutter switch, or else calibration will fail when the switch is stuck

Hmm, so I think they made some changes in firmware?

Yes lots.

So they send out the upgrade kit with a USB stick that upgrades the firmware (it wipes out rooting but using the traditional Root Helper Script works fine).

There are two important firmware processes they’ve added (that must be completed at the Self Check, though you can use the debugging jump self test method).

1. Programming the coordinates of the purge chute. This can be done through the Expert Mode menu on the printer. To succeed on this, I needed to clearance the purge chute mount on the back Z Rod.

2. Calibration of the Block Cutter Switch. This check is run last in the Self Check. Here the carriage will ram itself into the block cutter until it detects the filament cutter switch on the extruder has been pressed. For this to work I needed to clearance the centimeter on the left side of the carriage. The slope is just enough on that side that the switch becomes pressed but won’t “unpress”.

But other than those two issues, everything CFS related is working well. I still need to figure out some belt tension issues (and relearn Creality Print since CFS is not ed on Orca yet).

To add, the CFS Upgrade Firmware adds a box.cfg file to the printer and several new GCode Macros.

Thanks for advices. I hope today I’ll receive CFS module to start some tests. For now I have received the upgrade set and compared the stock with modded gantry and noticed that cutter block needs to be added.
I’ll check the issue with carriage as You mentioned. Can You send me a photos of your carriage for reference via lashigt@gmail?

Yes, You’re right. On the “photos” there are right steppers (root and no root version), so there’s a mistake in description. Visualisation in orca presents right and left from both versions. Thanks for pointing it out. I’ll try to fix that with later updates. I have also double checked and the files are named correctly, so for now that shouldn’t be an issue. Thanks again.

Perfect ! Thanks for the quick answer. It´s not that problematic dont stress yourself, just wanted to mention it.

Do you maybe have a link for Washer with 0,6mm height in and around Europe ?
I can only find Washer Heights with 0,5 or 0,6mm.
that would be lovely, i just ordered everything else from Aliexpress

Some of other customers before, mentioned that 0.6 are hard to get and also that might be to thick because a shrinkage of material. So for now please You can try print those and then use washers to match and adjust gaps, the main purpose of them is to separate the pulleys or bearings from touching of each others. You will also be able to grind them down and remove excess material. Those washers are also available in polyamide PA6 and works ok.

Hey there me again, which Screws are used to mount the Linear Rails in the Left and Right Block.
Am i to dumb to find it in the manual ?

Good question, I have checked the manuals, and… I forget to add it. That’s ISO 10642. I’ll check the correct lenght. But there should be also heated insert in the block.
Sorry for inconvenience.

Hi, I cannot confirm that, but I assume that it should fit.

Do you happen to know the length of the original x and y rods of the K1 max?

I do not but I will measure them afternoon

The dimensions of the original K1C gantry are:

X (2x):
- travel way (distance between Y guides): 286,4mm
- rod length: 302,0mm
- rod diameter: 10,0mm, hollow id ~8mm, steel

Y:
- travel way (distance between corners): 286,4mm
- rod length: 310,0mm
- rod diameter: 8,0mm, full metal (steel)

X axis hollowed rods are fi=10, hole fi= 6mm, L=381,5mm
Y axis rods are fi=8mm and L=391,5mm

Thank you. Checked the files in the package and ordered the rails.
It should fit. Only the screw holes for fixating the rails should be moved 2,5mm towards the ends of the rails.

Can you move the holes please? I'm struggling to get the positions correct in Meshmixer.

Please me via email
lashigt@gmail
I’ll send You customized file.

Expensive ones, Hiwin:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMCzVTl
Cheaper alternative:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrci0YT

That means You probably have accuracy/dimensions or shrinkage from material issues. Did You run dimension calibration? I assume that the nut socket is to tight?

Hi, At the moment I cannot that, I’m still waiting for upgrade set. But from the videos It seems that this should be compatibile.

There will be an issue with the “block cutter” and the switch on the extruder for cutting the filament at the very least.

The block cutter mounts to the old tensioner design. (https://www.printables.com/model/1217865-fbgrail-bcj-left-motor-mount-cfs-update-for-k1k1ma). And there may be some clearancing needed on the carriage for the switch

Hi, Im waiting for the upgrade kit, the mount itself is 67,6mm so should be fine, just the shape might be an issue. Probably I’ll have to design the new element as in the kit („block cutter”) then the stepper mount wont need any further changes.

That’s great to hear!

Hi,
I do not recommend to use it with short shaft, but You still can use it with a stock stepper motors.
On the other hand if You want simple modification X-axis alone is already making a huge difference to an overall print quality.
LDO’s compared to a Stock steppers are not a very big improvement in quality rather in speeds and accelerations ability.
Personally if I would be again before that decision I probably would leave stock steppers and save money for something else.
Decisions is yours :)

There are 2 available. There is a 17hs19-2004s1 ldo stepper motor. I couldn't find a place to use it :))

You can build laser cutter for example :)
You need just X and Y.

Hi! Thank You for Your honest opinion.
I’ll check again the parts listing and provide alternatives as You mentioned.
Parts lists were generated automatically by the CAD software with use of auto fit feature. It seems like software could not interpret the end surface correctly and suggest the shorter bolt. I’ll check on CAD model.
Thanks again.

You can set the current [Ampere] not voltage.
Look in sections about steppers.
[tmc2209 stepper_x] - for example. If You are not sure please read the documentation of Klipper on official website:
https://www.klipper3d.org/

Thanks for the info :-) How many amps did you set the LDO motors to? 1.4... correct?

Currently I’m running at 1.42 and it seems to be fine (for high speeds and accelerations).
Safe option is 1.4.
The value should be at 70-80% of nominal current for a specific motor and You need to be aware about temperatures not only of the stepper motor but also of the stepper driver on the motherboard.

Hi, when the kit will be available, I would probably that. But for now, after checking tutorial video from Creality I don’t see any areas that might be a problem. I suspect that it will be compatible as it is.

Check what is causing the knock sound, did You changed anything more in printer.cfg?

jayrmeyer
Okay this one maaay be on me:
[bed_mesh]
speed: 150
mesh_min: 5,5
mesh_max: 295,295
probe_count: 6,6
fade_start: 5.0
fade_end: 50.0

change to:

[bed_mesh]
speed: 150
mesh_min: 10,10
mesh_max: 290,290
probe_count: 6,6
fade_start: 5.0
fade_end: 50.0

All of the dimensions related to print volume needs to be adjusted, as You mentioned section steppers and also bed mesh.
It is also good to correct those in slicer just to make sure You will not be out of Klipper boundaries.

yes you were right, it prtouchv2 also needed to be adjusted in the printer.cfg. Otherwise when it sends the nozzle to clean before a print (CX_NOZZLE_CLEAN), it goes out of bounds.

Those can be seen on the main photo of the design. You need to use them in the blocks and those are working as a self centering pulley for a belts. Look closely at the technical drawing of a block.

Danke dir. Burkhard

Hallo Lashigt,
sorry, ich schon wieder.
Ich möchte jetzt noch die kleinen Pully´s einbauen.
Und dann?
was muss ich alles im Conf. ändern bzgl. Pully´s und Höhe?
Gibt es da irgend wo eine Beschreibung (am besten mit Bildern) wo ich sehen kann, was und wie ich das ändere.
Ich bin auch nicht mehr der jüngste .

Danke dir.

Burkhard

If I understood correctly via google translate.
You have a K1 Max with large 50 teeth’s gears on stepper motors?
If You want to replace those gears with adjustable 20T gears. Then You need to change few lines in printer.cfg (with stock steppers):
At section stepper x and y, find lines and change values:
Rotation distance = 40

Gibt es da eine Beschreibung wie man das mach?
Ich bin da unerfahren.
Und die Höhe, muss ich da auch was einstellen?

The height of adjustable gear needs to be matched with the pulleys in stepper mounts.
About editing the firmware (printer.cfg) there’s some good videos on YT.
You can access to the file via fluid or mainsail (root needed). Easiest way is to install helper script.

Danke für deine Hilfe.
Muss jetzt überlegen, ob ich es mache.
Eine Frage hab ich noch. Hast du einen Link zu en Linearschienen, die du benutzt hast. So kann ich dann sehen was die für eine Qualität haben müsen.
Danke dir

I bought those from local portal (like eBay).
https://allegro.pl/oferta/prowadnica-liniowa-szyna-mgn12-400mm-wozek-mgn12h-12818694022

The root procedure is quite simple example video:
https://youtu.be/rJFQTUREVPE?si=cOrLs_TxU1rdCtCO

Endschuldige, ich wieder. Wenn ich den Drucker nicht roote, dann brauche ich nichts zu ändern in Klipper? Obwohl die Düse jetzt tiefer ist? Verstehe ich das richtig?

What do You mean by that the nozzle is deeper? (Sory but I have to use translator).
If You change motion system by changing gears then you need to make a changes as I mentioned.
Kipper also holds the limits for print volume of a printer, if Your will have different volume then You also should correct it in printer.cfg

Das Dateivolumen meine ich, Das wird doch verändert. Oder?

Sorry, das Bauraumvolumen.

Yes if somehow your print volume is decreasing You should fix that in printer.cfg at the axis section according to the specific dimension (X,Y or Z). Parameters are:
position_endstop: 306.5 (example for x axis in stock machine)
position_max: 306.5 (example for x axis in stock machine)
Btw. How Your nozzle got lowered?
The modded carriage keeps stock position of nozzle.

sorry, ich hatte es falsch verstanden. Wenn beim Umbau alles beim alten bleibt ist alles ok. Danke Danke für deine Hilfe

No worries :)

Hallo, muss ich in der cfg. für Home auch was ändern?

Hi, there’s no need to change home coordinates (home is 0,0,0)

Danke, ich habe aber noch folgendes Problem:
Ich habe ein knacken wenn der Drucker homet oder Bethlevelt, und zwar auf der rechten Seite vorne. Kannst Du mir sagen wie dich das abstellen kann?

Did you change steppers or size of pulleys or gears?

Ich habe die Zahnräder gewechselt. auf 20er

If I understood correctly via translate,
You have changed the gears on steppers from “large ones” to 20T. So You have to make some changes to parameters for X and Y as follows:

The configuration on newer models with 20T gears from Creality is:
rotation_distance: 40
driver_SGTHRS: 75
interpolate: true
microsteps: 32
run_current: 1.5

Turned parameters for 20T (experimental):
rotation_distance: 40
driver_SGTHRS: 110
interpolate: False
microsteps: 128
run_current: 1.2

Hallo, mit vorne , das ist jetzt ok. Jetzt schlägt er aber beim Rückfahren hinten an. Muss ich da einen Wert ändern?

Dann habe ich noch das Problem, wenn er ca. 7,4 mm gedruckt hat, versetzt er den Druckbereich um 5,5 mm. was kann das sein. Danke dir im vor raus für deine Hilfe.

Please send me your printer.cfg on lashigt@gmail

You can try to take off only the top frame, then You’ll get access to the screws that holds stepper motors.

Hi,
Belts tension is a long story, but basically there’s 2 ways. First is let’s say professional, then you need to calibrate tension based on shaper/resonance plots. There’s some nice videos on YT explaining the basics of input shaper/belts shaper (I recommend to look into Klipper documentation or YT Chanel by Reth).
Second way is go with experience, then You need to run some quick test prints and evaluate the print quality (trial and error method).
Of course there are some devices to measure the tension but the value depends on many factors (belt length, number and degree of bends on its route, belt specific factors, resistance of cooperating elements like pulleys) to sum up there’s no one specific value which will be perfect for Your printer.
There’s some tutorials on the web that says specific values for k1 series but from my experience those values were not perfect, that is why I prefer method of trial and error because it is the easiest and fastest to get optimum point.

Hi, about changing the steppers, typical socket of LDO is incorect, so Yes You have to swap 2 cables. I’ll post a photo after swap from my printer (i dont remmember now which ones).
About printer.cfg main difference is rotation distance to 40 and microsteps value to 16 due to 0.9deg/step, You can also tune up the current for those motors a bit, i have experimentes with it and safe parameter is 1.5-1.6 (temperature friendly).

You need to switch middle pins (2,3) with their positions in the JST connector.
More info about 2 phase steppers can be found on the diagram below:
https://ibb.co/RMDzW3X

Wo genau kann ich den Strom einstellen? Auch in der printer.cfg ? "You can also tune up the current for those motors a bit, i have experimentes with it and safe parameter is 1.5-1.6 (temperature friendly)."

Yes, those can be found in printer.cfg

I mean, under which tag in the printer.cfg do I have to change the tag :-)

Hello Lashi, I have more questions about the G-code.
You write that the rotation distance should be changed to 40 and the microsteps to 16.
Is that correct? I have a G-code from you that says the following:
"microsteps: 32
#rotation_distance: 40
rotation_distance: 20 #LDO's"

It would be great if you could include in the info which values ​​need to be entered or changed in the G-code when using the LDO 42sth48-2504ah motors.

The „#” sign means that its a comment and not taken as a program line.

You should be fine like it is, it mostly depends on the exact ABS You have. Those parts are not that long in dimensions to be sensitive for shrinkage effect. Keep the chamber well heated and leave parts to slow cooldown.

I have added those on cults design info > printing parameters.

Danke :-)