Ultimate Creality K1 / K1C / K1SE / K1 Max D3D Linear X Rail Upgrade (no root needed & fully CFS compatible)

You need to add two more heat inserts for the microswiss hotends.
It’s quite easy to drill the holes and add them if you have already printed the parts. One of the others guys has already done this.

I will update the product page and make a microswiss version asap.

Thanks. I ordered a Unicorn hotend though, but I will see if I will change back to Flowtech some day.

You could use the unicorn for now if you have the parts printed, and I’ll update to add a flowtech version soon.
To swap the x carriage is pretty easy cause you don’t need to strip the machine.

I honestly don’t know sorry. I don’t have the BCJ files to compare.
I’ve had a look at some YouTube videos and it looks like it might.
I would say that if the front edge of the mount is no higher than the stock mounts (approx 5mm height on top of motor) you may be ok but really hard to tell from what I’ve seen.
I know my design has very very little clearance between the carbon tube parts and motors.
Also with the linear fitted and push right to the back of the build plate the carbon tube overlaps the motors by amount 10mm.
I hope that makes sense and helps.
Sorry I can’t be more specific without actually having the BCJ parts.

No worries, thanks for answering. I’ll measure everything and see how I get on. It would just be nice to use the LDO motos that I bought for the upgrade.

But surely you could use the LDO motors with the stock Creality mounts? No?

If you need anything else, please just ask and I’ll help as best as I can

Yes but alu is heavier and less stiff than carbon therefore not as good.
Also that alu (especially thin wall alu) will be prone to heat distortion therefore it may warp if you have high bed temp and long print.
Carbon is far less prone to temp distortion.

Apologies, I’m cannot comment. The stock design has a level of preload in it hence sticking with a preloaded linear rail. I would assume that you may end up with some resonance and VFA issues without a preloaded rail.

No, it’s not possible to maintain the stock print area with a MGN12H rail hence why I chose to use the MGN9H.
There are other options available online that utilise a MGN12H rail but come at the cost of slight loss in build volume and modifications to the start print code.

Yes, my design has the EXACT same build volume and movement range as the stock machine. Therefore it’s fully compatible with the CFS upgrade and will need no modification to the new CFS firmware.

I’m afraid currently there is not. I have been making mounts as per customer requests but my Mac is no long ed by Fusion360 as of the 31st March.
I will be buying a new Mac v.soon and will be able to make one then provided I can fine details and dims of the BTTEddie somewhere to design around.

If you want to do the mod in prep for it use the Cartographer X carriage as the pick up points will be the same. It will just be the BTTEddie mount that will change.

Got it! Thanks
Also just want to 100% check that there are no changes to the stepper motor mounts?

Nope, no change to the stepper mounts :)

Just an update! Printed out of PA CF, carbon tube cut and inserts inserted all installed in to the printer now and works a charm! The x-axis is now super smooth and I no longer have some weird noise when the print head moves to certain parts of the build plate. Was surprising how much the original x-axis was binding when the 2 rods aren't perfectly aligned.

Build/BOM not difficult. Highly recommend!

I checked last night and my CAD package seems to still be working on my Mac therefore I should be able to get a BTT Eddie mount made in the coming days.
Watch this space….

Do you still need a BTT Eddie mount or have you already got a solution?

This is a hard one to answer as not everyone needs everything.
Plus you can make more expensive or cheaper depending on what linear rail you choose to use.

Using all links provided in guide your looking around £60-65 GBP / 71-77 EUR / 77-84 USD

Also depending what filament you choose to print parts in will also effect total BOM cost.

Pure ABS is a LOT cheaper than ABS-CF or ASA-CF for example

That's fair enough, thanks. Just to nail it down a bit before I proceed then, could you advise what the linear rail options would cost from your recommended source, for a k1c length, for example?
Thanks again!

For K1/K1C/K1SE you need a 320mm linear rail.

HIWIN (imo the best option) is 43 GBP / 51 EUR / 55 USD

Thanks for the info. I purchased your files yesterday. I'm looking into ordering components etc - but firstly, I've got to say there's an impressive amount of effort you've put into preparing your files and regardless of how well things go, and I've no doubt it will go well, I can say that my purchase is excellent value. Thanks!

Thank you so much for the kind . Good luck with your build! I don’t think you will be disappointed!

PS: what is the recommended wall thickness for the carbon tube also, please (i'm trying to see if it will be possible to source the necessary components on my country) Tks!

Hi Krahembuhl, yes, if you buy the replacement heatsink as per the guide you can keep the rest of your hotend components. Just make sure you get a heatsink as shown in the photos that suits the unicorn hotend.

As for wall thickness of the carbon tube, 1mm minimum is suitable.

The guide uses a 10x10x8mm (outside x outside x inside)

TY, bought it today, will start buying the hardware. If I encounter any bumps, can I you somehow? Thank you!

Hi, thank you for the .
Just send me a message on here and I’ll pick it up quick.
Good luck with the build.

6mm version

Could be F623ZZ instead of the Toothed Pulleys 20T?

Yes, if you wish.

Is the inside of the Carbon tube you use a round or Square thought id better double check before ordering one to get parts ready to go? Amazing looking work can't wait to get the files printing just gotta pick a colour Cheers

It’s an 10x10x8mm square carbon tube

(10mm square with 1mm wall thickness)

Good luck with the build 👍🏻