N Scale Model Train Jigs To Hand Build Curved Train Tracks at 6, 8-1/4, 9, 10, 12 & 15 Inch Radius with Printed Tiebeds for the 8-1/4, 9, 10 & 12" Curves by Socrates

Covid lockdown was the trigger for my hand building a N Scale Model Train. When I started to hand build my N scale model train layout, my plan was to use aluminum jigs. In the process of making those jigs the middle step was 3D printed test jigs. They are no where near as strong vs. the heat of a soldering iron as aluminum but they did the trick for my needs. If you have a small tip on your soldering iron and a steady, fast hand, these jigs last for many pieces. Don't hold the iron against the rails longer than needed or the plastic will melt. Removing the piece can then require cutting the melted plastic from the rails. I use a small flat screwdriver to sneak under some of the crossties and then to push it deeper to leverage out the piece. Do this slowly as you can damage the piece and you have already spent a great deal of time to get this far, so take some extra time to slowly remove the piece.

After a few straight track pieces I knew the railroad would need to curve off to one side... The Curved Track was the next step! These are 3D printed jigs to hand build N scale model train curved tracks in 6, 8-1/4, 9, 10,12 & 15 inch radius curves. Also you can 3D print tiebeds for the 9, 10 and 12 inch curves. The ties are made from copper clad PCB ties and straight stock rails soldered together while held in place in a jig. The jogs are sized for Fasttracks PCB crossties: https://www.handlaidtrack.com/copperhead-crossover-ties as well as Micro-Engineering rails: https://www.handlaidtrack.com/17-055-c or here: http://www.microengineering.com/MicroEngineeringPriceListNovember2022.pdf

These Jigs are for 6, 8-1/4, 9, 10 and 12 Inch N Scale Model Train Curved Tracks are named as JIGS
The ties for both 8-1/4", 9", 10" & 12" curves are named as TIES.
Ties_9_inch_curve_4_TO_to_90 is a tie bed for a #4 turnout diverging rail to 90 degrees from the original path.
Ties 90 degree are ties for 9 inch curve - Is a full 1/4 circle at 9" radius.The jigs use a set of clamps and blocks to hold the rails securely in place while you solder them.

To make the crossties the Cutter and Gapper Tool and Straight Jig itself are designed to work with Fast Tracks CopperHead ties. https://www.handlaidtrack.com/ch-n-c However, if your copper ties fit the slots any maker will do.

Three Straight Track jigs are included. A 29cm without notched ends. Another 29cm with notched ends which help offset the rail ends by one crosstie on one rail vs the other. This makes a stronger t. One jig is about 18cm for smaller printers. Small clamps and a set of blocks are included to hold the rails in place while soldering them. The blocks are slightly thicker with the mark on the side and even thicker with two marks and go between the rails and the clamps.

There are nine different lengths of tiebeds included between
.....
and end in the middle of a five tie section. Use a cement to glue the track skeleton to the beds.

The copper PCB cross tie cutting and gapping tool works for straight and curved tracks. This will form 20 copper PCB board cross ties to the same length and with the gap in the middle all at once. This is designed for Fast Tracks PCB ties but should work for other brands such as Cloverleaf, but I have not had the opportunity to test them.

Snip off seven full length Crossover Tie PCB pieces and clean up the snipped end and then slip the tie into the tool and snip to length. Turn the tie around and put the other clean end into the next slot and snip to length. Snip the tiny piece off the end and continue until the tool is full or you have enough for your intended use. The tool works for one or twenty the same. Next file the ends all at once quickly with your rail file as the PCB files easy and so does the 3D printed plastic. Then attach the outer case and use a triangle file to file the gap in all the ties at once. You can see with a magnifying glass if the ties are well gapped. Double check for shorts with a continuity tester on a volt meter and avoid having to search for a short later on. Then use a small metal brush to safely clean off the dust as it can be fiberglass. File the flat gapped copper face just a little bit to make them shine just before putting in the jig and soldering them to the rails. Always use the three triangle track gauges when hand building my tracks to ensure they are in gauge. https://www.handlaidtrack.com/trifecta-n as well as the NMRA N scale gauge https://www.handlaidtrack.com/tl-0017.

I use a standard end jig to cut the rails to a standard length. This allows all pieces to fit without needing to be fit every time. Pliobond or other cement holds the rails and tiebeds together. Watch a short YouTube video including the building of a curve here: https://youtu.be/6pTk3mhaiY0

It may be possible to request other radius curves, if time allows Ill try to add to the collection. Leave a comment or a message for any requests.

These were printed at a basic 0.16mm layer height without s. Probably better with ABS or Nylon for better heat resistance, but I've only used PLA and found they worked for multiple turnouts and sections of track just fine. Moving quick with just enough heat gives better results, and the jigs only encourage this.