N Scale 12x9 Inch Curved Turnout, Printed Tiebeds & Cross-tie Cutter & Isolation Gap Tool.

EDIT I added my newer ties for linear servos, which have worked much better than the original stepper motors. Left and Right 12x9 Curved Ties as well as the 5 Step wire bending system I made to make throw arms from 18AWG solid core wire. Left and Right are for the two different versions of Linear Servos and not the turnout. A short video on how to use the Throw Arm Bender: https://youtube.com/shorts/eJ6IKzVRnO4?feature=share
Here is where I got the servos: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006578654460.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.76.328779d2rpaAqt&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

I designed my entire N Scale layout including the jigs to hand lay the tracks, except for a Fast Tracks #4 Turnout Jig which was my 1st piece of hand track laying tool work. But I have a tiny apartment and a tiny 60x120cm layout (adding an expansion now!) So I needed tight curves and specific turnouts to fit my needs. So I designed a series of curved and tangential turnouts to make my layout work. This is actually a 9" constant curve with a 12" diverging path coming off. I made all the parts to make track laying easy as possible: there are 12x9 curved turnout jigs, tiebeds, frog & throw bar jigs and tie cutter / gapping tools, clamps and clamping blocks to hold the rails.

Here is a video about the turnout with a time-lapse of the build process and describing the steps: https://youtu.be/LIJ7WoE8yR4

I use stepper motors for the turnout and have tiebeds for Steppers and for other. I used the Throwbar jigs to solder the throwbars - not sure if I changed that method later. The Frog jigs are just that - to make the Frog angle. The Blocks and Clamps hold the rails in place in the jig for soldering. The Cutter tools are for left and right with an inner and outer case part for each. Use the outer case to snip and file the ties to length and then swap them into the inner case to notch the ties using a small triangle file. This isolates the two sides +/- from each other. Otherwise there will be a short - check the rails are not shorted with a continuity tester!!

Usually print these using my fast setting of 0.16-0.30mm adaptive layers. Make sure the jigs cool all the way down on the print bed to minimize bending. I use weights on the ends of the jigs while I soldier the rails to keep everything flat.
The tiebeds seem to print better using Infill first and then inside-outside on perimeters.