KO Mini Combiner Wars Devastator and Constructicons Upgrade

This package is the complete set of parts to upgrade the KO Mini CW Devastator and Constructicons.
Includes 6 weapons in mini and full CW scale.

Also includes new hand package with 2 design variants.
Hand pack A (small)
Hand pack B (large - Longhaul)

Scrapper.

These files contain the new arm parts ( a mid and lower section, and a new wrist/hand) and foot extension parts.

Just added a new version called Scrapper Improved. Its an updated design. One file includes all L+R parts.

The parts are very simple to change from the stock arms.
Just pop the stock arms out of the mushroom peg.
Take the new, mid arm and connect to the lower arm. Then attach the wrist and hand. And, combine to the lower arm.
Once the arm is assembled, attach to the mushroom peg on the figure.
No pin removal required on this upgrade.
You now have bicep swivel, elbow and wrist rotation. Ta da!
This Scrapper upgrade alone is such a massive upgrade for this set.

The foot extension simply plugs into the bottom of Scrappers foot in robot mode.
For vehicle and combined mode, the foot extension needs to be removed and plugged into the peg that is on the figures shin. So, the parts are stowable in non robot modes.

If you can get it, Lulzbot green takes care of all Scrappers upgrades. It is a near perfect color match.

Hook.

These files contain the new arm parts (an upper a mid and lower section, and a new wrist/hand) and a new crane assembly that can be folded up in robot/combined mode.

Just added a new version called Hook Improved. Its an updated design. One file includes all L+R parts.

These are not very straight forward to change out in place of the stock arms. So, take care.
The whole arm needs to be removed from the pin at the shoulder t. I would suggest using a center punch to dislodge the pin. Once the pin is dislodged, use some pliers to gradually rotate and pull the pin from the hole.
But, go slowly and the shoulder t and upper arm section as you punch the pin out. The shoulder t has some bend to it but the plastic everywhere on this figure is pretty thin.

Take the new, upper arm, and connect via the mushroom peg to the mid arm. Then, connect to the lower arm via the friction t 2mm hole/port connectors. Finally, attach the wrist and hand. And, combine to the lower arm.
Once the arm is assembled, move the upper arm hole into position over the hole in the shoulder t and insert the pin. You may need to file out the hole a little to make sure the pin goes in. It may be too tight depending on print tolerances. But, you want it to be a snug fit.

Once done, you now have bicep swivel, an elbow t and wrist rotation. Ta da!
This upgrade really lets Hook express himself much more.

The crane kit is great. All the parts fit together via a dowel and friction ts.
Once completed, it gives you a crane that looks similar to the stock version for vehicle mode but in robot mode, can be folded up neatly on Hooks back, giving the figure much better balance and aesthetics. Again, just be careful during assembly and be ready to slowly file down any areas of between parts, particularly at the ts, if necessary.

The arm components will need to be mirrored and printed for the alternate side.

Lulzbot green takes care of all Hooks upgrades.

MixMaster.

These files contain the new arm parts ( a mid and lower section, and a new hand), drum, cab (2 variations), shin and foot parts.
So, you can scale up what you want to do to this guy. If you do all the mods, he looks awesome and goes from being one of the meh figures of the set to possibly one of the best.
That said, the cab change alone is huge for combined mode and vehicle mode.

If you go all in however....this is what you're in for...
The arm changeover is complex, like Hook. Same kind of process. So, be very careful and handle the ts securely while removing the pins. The plastic is very fragile.
I found it easier to take the whole upper body apart for the arm upgrade. If you do that, you can actually pull the shoulder t out of its little socket and remove the pin while holding just the t and arm; instead of having to maneuver your grip around the whole figure.
I would recommend this approach. You can also change over the drum at this same time by removing all of the screws that hold the stock one in place. The replacement drum just pegs into a port on the back via a post. That bit is easy...getting the stock drum off however is not. You do have to take the figure apart. So, might as well change the drum and the arms at the same time.

The new feet replace the stock ones. I would change these before the shins. Just because you may have to grip the figure pretty tight during the removal and install process.
You have to lever the stock feet off the friction t holding them in place. It's not easy. Go careful, slow and with patience. The new feet come in two parts. them together at the friction t and you will have a moveable heel which gives the figure much better poseability and stability. Once they are together, attach to the lower leg.

The new shins replace the stock ones. Punch out the pins and remove the stock ones. Then put the new shins on in their place.

The cab comes in 2 pieces. One is the frame on which the cab sits and needs to be installed on the stock cab. Then, the new cab needs to be installed on the frame. It sits in a runner that allows it to slide and rotate to the correct position. There are a couple of cab options for you to look at.

The shins are designed to print together, but arm sections will need to be mirrored and printed for the alternate side. So will the foot.

Lulzbot green is good for the arms, shins, feet and cab. For the drum you may want to consider a purple. I use Gizmo Dorks ABS Dark Purple. ABS does need more careful attention than PLA for printing.

Longhaul.

Just added a new version called Lonhaul Improved. Its an updated design. It includes all parts for 1 side. Just mirror for the other side.

Longhaul uses the Constructicon Hands B set.

These files contain the new arm parts (shoulder t, upper arm, a mid and lower section, and a new wrist/hand) and new leg attachments.
Similar to Hook and Mixmaster, the arm change is a little complex but not quite as challenging.
You do need to remove the stock shoulder t and replace it with the new one that has a mushroom peg on it.
Then take the new, upper arm and connect it to the mid arm via the mushroom peg. Then, connect to the lower arm via the friction t. Then attach the wrist and hand by the friction t, to the lower arm.
Once the arm is assembled, attach to the mushroom peg on the shoulder t. You now have Longhaul Schwarzenegger.

You now have bicep swivel, elbow t and wrist rotation. Ta da!
This is a pretty swell upgrade for the arms but, when you combine with the leg upgrade, this figure goes from being the absolute disaster zone of the bunch to by far the most incredible robot (in my opinion). To attach the leg parts together, just use the pegs and ports on the individual components. The foot attaches to the bottom of the shin section and allows rotation around the peg t for better poseability. The two outer leg parts attach together. And then the outer leg attaches to the shin section, via the port at the bottom end.
To attach all the leg components in robot mode, you need to have Longhauls stock legs in the position like you would when transforming to Devastator.
Once done, and these parts are attached, this figure looks like he means business.

It is worth saying that there is a negative. The vehicle mode loses some form as it becomes super wide. But, it was a sacrifice that I was willing to make.

To transform to vehicle, the arms peg into the sides, like stock. Hands fold in.
The leg sections need to be removed. The lower legs need to be folded in like normal.
The leg sections then need to pegged into the back of the vehicle and the outer section rotated into a wheel arch position.

For transformation to combined mode, the leg sections need to be removed completely and set aside. The arms need to be rotated 90 degrees to the rear and hands folded in.
The rest of the transformation is the same as normal.

Unfortunately, there's only so much that can be done with this figure with add on parts but, I think this gets the best out of him....at least in robot mode.

Arm and leg parts will need to be mirrored for printing both sides.

Lulzbot green will work for the upper arms and legs. I would suggest a black or dark grey for the lower arms and hands.

Devastator

This set comes with the:
- Hands; palm of hand and individual finger sections. I didn't add a hole for the rifle to tab into because I never pose Devastator with his rifle. But, you could add one in any design software if you wanted to experiment and modify the design. Recommend Gizmo Dorks Dark Purple.
- Forearm extension; this slots into the mushroom peg for the stock hands, extends the forearm and has a port for the new hand to be inserted. Recommend Gizmo Dorks Black.
- Shoulders; these are separated into multiple parts and there is a specific left and right because the adapters on Bonecrusher and Scavenger are different. Recommend Lulzbot Green for each component.
- Each side has a unique Shoulder Base. This is what attaches to Hook on either side.
- Each side has a unique Shoulder Adapter. This is what plugs into Scavenger and Bonecrusher.
- The Shoulder Lever is universal to both sides and is what connects the Shoulder Base to the Shoulder Adapter.
- The Shoulder ratchet sits at the bottom of the Shoulder Base and creates friction with the Lever. That said, I never installed this part. The friction created by the tight tolerancing is enough to keep the ts tight.
- The Shoulder Component A is a universal L & R and one print is for one side. The two components are installed in the holes at the top of the Shoulder Base, at the front and back (there is a specific front and back component). They hold the Lever in place and also provide a small amount of detailing.
- Torso Lift; this file includes 3 components and the largest is inserted between Longhaul and Hook. Hook has to be tabbed into the part at two locations (the circular hole and the rectangle - just like for the stock set up). Once tabbed in, the two smaller components need to be tabbed into the holes on the front of the large component. The aim of these smaller components is actually to hook under part of Longhauls detailing and just stabilize the assembly. Recommend Lulzbot Green.

That's it. The full set.
Quite a project this one if you're up for it.

None of these mods require pins. However, I may redesign them and include versions that do use pins. Watch this space...
I will also probably work on an Longhauls dumper to widen it and cover his new width more.

FDM 3d printing