Kill Team 2024 - Approved Ops and Datacards Holder
- 3.1k views
- 18 likes
- 122 s
- 2 collections
- 1 comment
- 0 makes
License | |
---|---|
Usages | |
3D design format |
9 files (STL) Close
|
Publication date | 2024-12-16 at 10:03 |
Design number | 2562811 |
Would you like to Cults?
You like Cults and you want to help us continue the adventure independently? Please note that we are a small team of 4 people, therefore it is very simple to us to maintain the activity and create future developments. Here are 3 solutions accessible to all:
- ADVERTISING: Disable your ad blocker.
- DONATE: Make a donation via Ko-Fi ๐.
- WORD OF MOUTH: Invite your friends to come, discover the platform and the magnificent 3D files shared by the community!
Sharing and ing on Cults3D guarantees that designs remain in makers community hands! And not in the hands of the 3D printing or software giants who own the competing platforms and exploit the designs for their own commercial interests.
Cults3D is an independent, self-financed site that is not able to any investor or brand. Almost all of the siteโs revenues are paid back to the platformโs makers. The content published on the site serves only the interests of its authors and not those of 3D printer brands who also wish to control the 3D modeling market.
Hello, do you have any recommendations for settings for the s of the logo recess? I've printed a couple of the lids, and the logo has been a bit of a pain to remove so far. Great model otherwise.
G'day DJ-BULLY. Yeah, getting your settings right can be tough but once you've got them dialed in it's amazing how easily they remove from everything. I struggled with my s for years with my old printer, and then when I switched to the Creality K1, and went through a full calibration sequence for everything (temperature, retraction, flow rate, pressure advance etc) everything just seemed to work the way it was supposed to. It was such a nice change.
I imagine that settings are dependent on your individual calibrations to an extent but, in the hope that it helps, here are my settings taken from Creality Slicer:
Type: Normal (auto)
Style: Default
Threshold Angle: 30
First Layer Density: 90%
First Layer Expansion: 0mm
On Build Plate Only: True (The only time I have this set to "false" is when I'm printing the insert for the score tracker)
Remove Small Overhangs: False
Top Z Distance: 0.2mm
Bottom Z Distance: 0.2mm
Base Pattern: Default
Base Pattern Spacing: 2.5mm
Pattern Angle: 0
Top Interface Layers: 2
Bottom Interface Layers: 2
Interface Pattern: Default
Top Interface Spacing: 0.5mm
Bottom Interface Spacing: 0.5mm
Normal Expansion: 0
Object XY Distance: 0.35mm
Distance Priority: XY Overrides Z
The key ones are the interface layers (I have two layers at the top because it ensures that the 2nd layer is smooth (to reduce the chance of adhesion with the actual model layer it's ing) and I have a Top Interface Spacing of 0.5mm (the air-gap between the and the object it's ing). The other important one (for me) is the XY distance. You want to make sure your s are close to the walls of whatever they need to , but not so close that the ends up melding with the walls of the model. This is where things like temperature and flowrate come into play because you could potentially be losing precision with your print if your print head is laying down a line that is thicker than intended, or is so hot it's drooping and running way wider than the intended nozzle width.
Hope that helps!