50' N Scale Log / Pipe Car with Micro-Trains Couplers

This is my 50' Log or Pipe Car! I've been working on new tank car and the tongue and groove body system made me think: Log Car! So I decided to not just think it but to make it and have some! Rather happy with the results. This isn't modeled directly from a image but takes elements from a few log cars and my earlier attempts to model others. I like to have some cars that allow you to see both rails under them - which is harder with a FDM printer... Here is a video about the cars and how to assemble them: https://youtu.be/LPx--xxitKc

Also include a NW2 Locomotive and "wheels" to use the Log / Pipe cars as a static model of for a kid's toy that later in life they can put coupler on and run on real rails! Same "wheels" fit nearly all of my designs.

There are twelve (12) Loads included, eight (8) Logs and four (4) Pipes. I include files labeled SUP which have my own custom s. I found the edges tended to pull up so I made brims out of objects, so they print with perimeters and infill one or two layers only. There are three parts to the Log Car: The Base, The Forks (2) and The Logs.

How to add automatic color changes in the slicer for any 3D printer: https://youtu.be/5vR1_HEw6Fs I used wood filament for the logs and did a color change just after the base layers on some of the forks. I made some with the base and forks all the same "steel" silver but the yellow base with brown forks is more visually appealing and is closer to the images I which used to model the car. The Logs have a internal SUP flange that needs to be removed and I usually use a de-burring tool to clean the inner edges of the groove on the Log side. The Base has a ive SUP which should pop off fairly simply by pushing up on the inner section of the Base. There may be some loose threads along the log edge of the Base which can be cut away. The Base edge may need to be cleaned with the de-burring tool as well. Once the Logs and Base have been adjusted to fit, set the Logs aside and put the Forks onto the Base. If needed hit the Very Quickly with a torch lighter flame to burn off any threads between the four forks on each side if you get them. I've used a tweezers spread a bit wider around the Fork and Base to get them to snap into place. They are a very fast print and I make an extra, but have only broken one so far with 20 or so cars made. I included the Coupler which holds the Base and Forks while you install the Micro-Trains Medium Shank Couplers. Make sure the couplers turn freely when you flip the car sideways, if not use a small screwdriver to leverage them SLIGHTLY looser. If they pop off, start again - or use the larger Micro-Trains pin. Last just snap the Logs onto the Base one final time. Depending on how well they were pre-fit this is either easy or a bit delicate... 

Adaptive layers between 0.16 - 0.30 mm has become my default print setup. Use 0.10 - 0.16mm at times but that causes other issues especially with thin parts like the Forks. I add a layer change command in the slicer just past the base of the Forks to allow the base to be the same color as the Base part and the forks to be darker, either black or a brown seem most common of actual Log Trains.