17 commentaires

I design in Sketchup Make 2017. STL is the only way I can export at this time. Can you try the Bambu Studio Slicer? Should be free and the text works well for me using that app. I have rescaled some of my cars into HO but it takes reworking the base for the couplers and adding a buried lock nut. The text is made of separate objects which makes it easier to select colors in the slicer. This was the way that I found worked best with Bambu Studio Slicer. Should be a video showing adding colors on one of the first designs in multicolor that I published.

I'll and give it a shot and report back.

Same issue, but ... it appears that the letters are all loading and then dropping to the build plate. If I use "Split to Objects", the letter insets appear as holes on the main part, but the letters are all dropped onto the plate. Trying to reposition them results in them falling back to the plate. This hapens in both Orca 2.3.0, Bambu Studio 2.3.0.54, and Anycubic Slicer Next 1.3.4.0 (all latest versions).

In these screenshots, the first is the impoeted STL, the second is the "Split to Objects" result and the third is the objects selected.

https://1drv.ms/i/c/6891d42f5584c65c/EcHTrY2Ce4tLu-XApfqTIL0BQ5A8PObgyf8qHyGbCnxRIg?e=cY8SmQ

AHA! The secret is in seperating the STL into PARTS, not OBJECTS!. Once I did that, the letters are all where they should be and I was able to assign colors. First set of prints running tonight.

Here's the first COSCO container scaled to HO.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/apz9iv1lscoxsm03hss9d/IMG_1037.jpeg?rlkey=f23nxgk334eiu7as9pch9x1w3&st=lacln8ws&dl=1

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rs34n78bkw0wmpk73mug9/IMG_1038.jpeg?rlkey=ztjd1297zyagqqnyi9ghrnckk&st=3s82aytr&dl=1

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hmol0afvgow01dwb0lj2k/IMG_1039.jpeg?rlkey=g8g8ymsc24w1luwqs3c88woz4&st=3s3h4vwz&dl=1

Glad to hear they work in HO as well! Which slicer did you get to work the best? I use the term "object" in the design sense. I may try to break the cars by colors in the future. Thanks very much for the ! I made a version 53' for the double stack Intermodal Well car in the videos. What sized magnets would use use in HO? I used N35 type 6x3mm round for N and have some stronger N52 6x4mm which should work well but I have not tried. I used them for the HO kids version magnetic couplers. Very strong N52 magnets!

Those magnets will work great with HO as well. For the containers, I recommend changing the infill to 8% and the type to "Adaptive Cubic". This will lighten then dramatically, but still keep them strong enough for our use.

Hi Shawn, thanks for your views and interest! At this point I just have the #4 and a 12x9 Curved Turnout listed. I'm made a #6 recently but it needs to have the servo setup still. So not 100% sure it is right until that is done. It takes more effort to make the videos than the designs! I made a 15x9 Curved as well, but never actually build the turnout as my track plans changed. For which turnouts were you looking?

I was looking for #5, 6, and possibly a wye if you had them available.

I'm just finishing a #6, it works fine so have to finish the videos etc. I have a #2 Wye - it is two #4 diverging rails. Never actually used them except the double wye in the Timesaver part, but that never actually ran trains or had servos installed. Will take more work to finish as the diverging rails need to moved a few ties closer to the frog. Working on it since I need the double and another wye soon.

Most of my designs are for N scale and metal rails. Not sure if you saw https://cults3d.sitegames.net/en/3d-model/game/n-scale-straight-track-jig-and-crosstie-cutter-and-gapping-tools-hand-made-model-train-tracks-by-socrates Simple straight tracks, curved and many turnouts. I prefer the 3D printed jigs as they don't act as heat sinks when soldering.

Sorry, I use Sketchup, but you can load the STL into various CAD programs.

I never moved this one from thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4965575 the wing tips are a bit high for Kato GP types, so if it hits, just shave the highest points down a little bit, only one loco ever complained though. I've updated the design a bit since. So many things I still have to . More fun to design and work to ...

I also don’t know where the B16 piece goes because it doesn’t appear in the Cults diagram, or maybe I’m not seeing it clearly.

This is actually only the second car I designed. Finding the right ladder shape was tough as well as the amount of detail that will render in FDM wit a 0.4mm nozzle. The more recent Open Hopper and Cylindrical Grain Hopper both have better ladders. Also working on a local Taos Kaolin Cylindrical car from here in Amsterdam where the ladder worked well. Not sure if I can easily try and update the design and improve the ladders on this one. Thanks for the !

Wonderful video! Thanks so much! Sounds like a great idea with the coal! You can just post photos for makes. Would love to see a coal load photo as a make!

Just finishing a new load for the Open Hopper - is a coal load with chunks. Same idea as you modified. Also fixed a small flaw in the car, added a newer version.

One question: Did you try both sized pins? In the MT pack there are two sizes of pins. One set are attached to a long bar and are the larger pins than the ones attached to a smaller more square connecting thing are smaller. I only use the smaller pins. I also will sort of wallow out the opening with the volt meter probe to open the mouth a bit. Then I'll wiggle them to find the center and then push on them to force them into the car. My arm was pretty badly broken, so I don't think I even can use very much force. If you are sure you tried the smaller pins I can make a quick test hole print and you can tell me which fits best. But if they are too loose the couplers will fall off. I've printed hundreds of cars all with the same hole and lots of printer phases and setups, so it "should" work. Socrates

The larger pins seem to have smaller little opening in the head, looks like a dimple - so when on the tip of my voltmeter the larger pins don't sit as deeply as the smaller ones do. I use the tip to get them into the MT couplers before installing onto the car. Was maddening to try and get the pins into the coupler holes any other way! So make sure the pins are the smaller ones.

Success. On an online forum I found that a 5/64" drill bit matches the MT smaller pin. I did a few twists of a hand drill and then popped the pin in after following the tips you gave. Got a good start on my fleet of your cars. BTW a 10 pack of medium extended trucks and couplers runs $65 US.

Hi Dave, and Thanks! I'm in Amsterdam and have bought some from the UK and others from Aliexpress. I'd try Ali from Aus: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32810872544.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2bceOi7WOi7WSh&algo_pvid=994b1054-d8a0-4b8a-b0c9-d3b68b0a4469&algo_exp_id=994b1054-d8a0-4b8a-b0c9-d3b68b0a4469-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%212.07%212.07%21%21%212.20%212.20%21%40211b618e17215434850366207eac99%2112000037536050577%21sea%21NL%21170914997%21Z&curPageLogUid=7yYvPR81M000&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

The UK shop: https://www.barenco.co.uk/

I'll have to check the 7cm bolt (should be CM not MM) I'll get back to you on the bolt.

Good catch - that is a 70mm bolt. It slides along the top section as the lift moves up and down.

Hi there, my lift has turned out quite well. Thank you. It’s very strong and seems to work well cranking by hand. I am just a bit stuck with the wiring. Would you happen to have a diagram on how you wired yours? Thanks

The DC motor has four wires in two pairs. One half of each pair goes to the limit switches and the other to the DPDT toggle switch (Double Pole Double Throw switch).
The DPDT reverses the polarity of the DC motor as well as which of the limit switches are energized. The DPDT toggle switch has six wires in total. The two in the middle go to the power source - a 12VDC plug. The two outer wires on one side of the DPDT go to each of the system's limit switches. With the last two from the other side going to the other pole of the DC motor.
The limit switches have three poles but only get a wire attached to the two outer connections with the middle one left empty. The end near the limit switch hinge wire goes towards the DC motor - one switch to each side of the motor. The other end of the limit switch wire goes to one side of the DPDT toggle switch and in the OUTER corners. Do the same with the other limit switch wire on the other motor pole and the SAME side of the DPDT switch. The other two wires from the motor go to the opposite side of the DPDT switch. Make sure that the motor wire to the DPDT toggle is paired with the other side limit switch.

So the wire's first path goes from one side of the DC motor to the hinge side of the limit switch, then one side of the DPDT. Then the other side of the DPDT wire goes directly back to the OTHER side of the DC motor.
The other path is just the reverse via the other limit switch.
If not sure how the switch works, use a continuity meter (the beep) to find which paths connect when the DPDT toggle is one way or the other.
Does that explain it? Can't post an image here. Glad the lift works well for you. Even more fun with a flip of the switch... Would love to see a make of what your did with the lift!
Socrates

Hello again! I looked at the design and didn't see any issues. I re-exported and added the STL for the base with and without the SUP . I've only printed the SUP versions. Also added a zip file with both SUP and non ed Gcodes in both fast and best versions. Let me know if one of these works. Would love to see that long line of open hoppers if you have another make! Thanks for printing and running my designs! Socrates

https://ibb.co/Tkn9787

Did you try the one without my SUP? Looked at the STL and S3D slicer claimed there was a flaw, messed with it and now says is none. Printed fine for me as it was. I removed the 2B files and replaced them with 3A SUB and without. Let me know if this at least changes the issue. I'd just do the one until it prints for you. Odd it knocked everything off as well. I assume you moved it and re-sliced at least once?

I had 3A and 3B on the surface and it got to the same height in the build, and Clunk! They got knocked over, just like the other attempts. Something about that level in the build is strange, same place every time. I even jacked up the heat of the surface by 10 degrees. I should add that the open coal hoppers let me print 12 of them no problem.

Just now I decided to not be an idiot, and printed 3A all by itself. Although I sweated out every layer, it worked. A complete car.

When the error comes at the same spot, it may be the slicer. I went back to the original model and recombined all the parts. I did spot a small flaw, but the other designs seemed to have been corrected. Maybe this will help. If it happens on this 4A version, please try to slice it with a different slicer. If it is knocking the part off the board, maybe it has some sort of Z offset triggering? Seems it must be lowering the nozzle. But only with this one print.

Bambu Slicer has an Advanced menu that is not displayed unless you click on Advanced. Then the settings for RAFT appear. Apparently the don't think people should be using RAFTs. I enabled it and said 3 or 4 layers. I was able to print 12 car bodies in a row with no issues, one at a time.

Glad it worked in the end! I left the 3and 4th versions up. Not sure which you printed. I've never used a raft successfully, once it was on but that print failed... The SUP is the only ones with added . May help, may make it worse with a raft enabled. I'm imagining a pretty long line of cars! I can just fit 27 before I catch my tail... Adding a second section now! Making my bridge 60cm long between the two...

Did you prefer the 35cm? I can add the wider with the lift as well. Looks like the tip is up - is why I added it originally... Wide enough? Easy to make another change if needed. Thanks for my 1st Make! About to print an improved version of the Free Gondola with a thinner top wall.

Thanks for buying my design!
These are the limit switches I used:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32273125391.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.3f0279d2w7NW1w&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

These are the motors - I used a 200RPM
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32987942205.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.45.3f0279d2w7NW1w&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

The up/down switch: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000413987958.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.103.3f0279d2w7NW1w

The threaded rod is just a M5 metric threaded rod.
I'll try to add some assembly instructions.

Thank you for replying promptly.
What is the length of this threaded rod?

In assembly instructions, please mention the hardware requirements (type and quantities)
It will help your future buyers.

Keep doing the good work.

17cm long M5 threaded rod. I'll make a count of lengths. Is all M3 though. But more than a few lengths. Off to do a Stand Up Comedy show now...

Here are my best estimates of the parts:
Hardware required: All bolts are M3 diameter.
Normal head bolts:
The Crosses use 35mm bolts and washers (7)
Top/Bottom & limit switch adjustment screws 55mm (10)
Limit switch covers 16mm (4)
Transfer box (rides the threaded rod) 25mm (4)
One long 7mm bolt top & cross connection. (1)

counter sunk heads:
Switch control cover 16mm counter sunk (2)
Also the Motor mount screws (2) depending on your motor

I used washers on all the crosses and moving parts unless it seemed impossible (only a few places).

Nuts are all locknuts and I use a vicegrip to push them into their holes before assembly.
Hope that helps! Love to see a make when you succeed!

Hello Mo, I'm just to the west in Amsterdam. That is very kind of you to say. I used a flat threaded screw rod and a simple 12V DC motor. For my intended use there isn't much need for strength as it was to lift a section of N Scale model train track and cars to a higher lever vs using a helix tack. These were the hand powered and motorized proof of concept designs. Since I haven't decided to build a second higher level I stopped working on it after the successful version. The beauty of a scissor lift is the motor can be very small, the power comes from the geometry and threaded rod. However there is a fair bit of lash in the system which using an angled treaded rod connecting the base and a higher point in the scissor may be stronger. It does raise and lower to the same point using the limit switches quite effectively. I would have added some form of hard stop on the bottom letting the lift go to slack. Similar on top I'd guess but under stress so as to make sure the tracks were tight. The base as is isn't ideal for load testing but it seems quite effective for the task. Not sure if I'll put it up on Cults as it isn't really a finished thing but is an interesting project for sure. Thanks for your interest!

Nice, we are pretty much neighbors :) Thank you so much for the detailed information!! this is some really interesting information, I am currently planning on making one but I need it to hold 1 kg of weight and thus trying to gather as much information as I can as finding info about a manual scissor lift and calculations for it was so easy but for the motorized version there isn't much out there. I couldn't agree more with you, it's a very interesting project with so many application possibilities.

Buurmannen! I'd be very confident this design with some minor modifications would be very effective for 1kg of weight. I'd mostly make it slightly wider for stability, my plan was to make a longer one so I could have longer trains being lifted at once. I can put a weight on it later and see how it fairs with 1 or more KG. I'll look at the parts later, see how hard it is to package the design for cults. Was quite happy with the results of this design effort!

Buurmanneeen !! actually only from the short video it looks like it can take a bit more load but do you think using a stronger motor like a nema 17 stepper would make it more stable with the lash in the system or won't make a difference?
I have been researching a bit on this and found out how to calculate the torque required from the motor to run it smoothly with a load of 1 kg which should be in the 0.1 NM range but I haven't had any luck yet with figuring out the load on the material itself and weather PLA would be able to handle that or not. That would be great actually, I would love to be able to see your mechanism closer!! if you do it, maybe some pictures of the full working design too with it if it's possible.

Can I maybe ask you what did you use for for linking the ts and at the same time have them move freely ?

I've put together the 28 pieces as STL files so far, will try to publish it shortly, but I'm pretty busy doing comedy shows this month. I use M3 bolts as my standard connection. M3 locknuts are buried into the other side and washers when needed. I use a vice grip type of pliers to force the nuts straight into the printed hex holes before assembly. Is that what you mean?

Man i really appreciate you taking the time to answer when you are so busy, it is exactly what I meant and now I understand much more about it but how much tolerance do you have between the screw and the t that it's running all the way through to the other side, is it too lose or you made it so it barely revolves around it?

Do you mean the threaded rod and the nuts on it? The nuts are buried into the transfer connection between the threaded rod and the sides of the lift. The nuts are loose on the treaded rod except for the force required to push the lift. I ran it with 1Kg and it definitely strained the motor, so for any real load a stronger motor is a must. About to list the lift now - success with your project!

BTW I pushed 1Kg with the lift - is on the video. Was a struggle - but I think the motor is too small for such a load. But it did seem the design was up to the task, especially a larger version.

Not a problem! I removed the flange and added the base pieces to the body for a single object. I only worry about the pin holes which are perfect for my FDM using MIcro-Trains but may be too big in resin - also I did not ad any drains. If you have a standard pin size I can change the pin holes if needed. The shape is designed for FDM aso may be a bit thick in resin. I'd love to see how it comes out! Makes an affordable long cut of cars though! Thanks for ing my efforts!

Excellent! Once I print one ill post a photo and let you know.

Thanks a ton

Thanks for the ! Added them to the file now.