Visor Térmico Airsoft Bajo Coste FLIR Scope Sistema de Visión Nocturna Detector de Objetivos "Ogle" (¡No Requiere Codificación!)

Airsoft Low Cost Thermal Sight FLIR Scope Night Vision System "Ogle"

NO CODING NEEDED!

Please check your countries laws before building this thing.

This is the Ogle, a 3D-printable airsoft thermal sight that is designed to be made for as low of a cost as possible. Easily printable on many basic 3D printers and with very little wiring needed, the Ogle thermal scope is intended to be a more accessible FLIR-style airsoft scope that can also be used as a ive night vision system.

The total cost of the Ogle is around £250 max (rough estimate using the lowest resolution camera, not including DVR) and uses pre-built modules to simplify the wiring. You can use the higher quality camera modules but the price does increase exponentially. I used the lowest cost FPV thermal camera and this still seems to be adequate enough to detect thermal signatures within the typical ranges of airsoft.

The printed parts require very little material and can be printed relatively quickly. The wiring requires a little soldering and the ability to certain coloured wires together. If you can solder, you can do it!

Whilst the Ogle doesn't have a zoom (the lenses required are very expensive) it has a magnifier in the screen to compensate as much as possible for the lower resolution. Even if you don't use this as your main sight you can use it to detect signatures to help you aim with a conventional sight.

A RIS rail can be screwed onto the Ogle to mount any other optics. For example a red dot sight for precise aiming, whilst the Ogle can be used for target detection. The Ogle has quite a weight to it but that's the trade-off that exotic optics have.

The Ogle can also be used as a night vision optic which is ive (no external illumination required) but also has the obvious target highlighting ability. The performance of the thermal sight can depend a lot on ambient temperature, air particulate matter, time of day, clothing etc. HOWEVER in testing I found this defeats smoke screens!

You can also wire in a DVR cable if you want to record from the Ogle. I recommend a small FPV DVR. You will probably need to install the DVR externally unless you want to sacrifice battery space.

The Ogle draws 200 milliamps during use, so make sure you use a decent sized battery if you want a long battery life. The battery/power source needs to be between 5-12v.

Non-printed parts (AMAZON LINKS ARE LINKS):

FPV Thermal Camera: These can be purchased for quite a low cost given what they are, but as you increase resolution the price really starts to skyrocket. I used a 256 resolution with a 4mm lens. I literally just found out that you can get different lens focal lengths for the same price if you want a different zoom level. I'll be trying a 9mm lens out when I get a chance.

The listing I originally used is gone, here's a similar one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006858009780.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!157.79!157.79!!!!!%40!12000038538716249!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=615-992-9880&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=_oFgTQeV&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en1005006858009780&ds_e_product_merchant_id=586099011&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&alb=22486114732&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22476236133&gbraid=0AAAAA_TvRHrWA86VTB4pAw0MdmTnMzQaX&gclid=CjwKCAjwiezABhBZEiwAEbTPGI59wCr3KKPGEGPBXYYRQtqZ9z1OUPErFWrqFOQF20xCflyUDxyMuBoCid0QAvD_BwE

1.5 inch LCD display with Analog video input: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008497450319.html

The screen needs an anaput to connect directly to the camera module. The screen also features two buttons that allow for brightness adjustment and rotation of the screen. I didn't make the buttons accessible as it's not really needed, set it up and then seal the unit up. The resolution should at least be the resolution of whatever camera you're using. As I'm using a 256x192 camera, this screen is fine. Make sure the screen is 1.5 inches or it won't fit.

75 Ohm resistor, this connects the Video Out from the camera to the Video In on the screen. Composite video leads have a 75 Ohm impedance, if you don't use this resistor you'll end up with a screen that whites out very easily plus a few other artefacts. I used a 500 Ohm potentiometer set to 75 Ohms as that's what I had laying around. Here's a fixed resistor: https://amzn.to/43iJLVz

12mm On/Off Switch: https://amzn.to/4k3eFHL

Battery pack with a minimum voltage of 5V and a max of 12V.
I used a long 4xAA battery holder with some rechargeable batteries in. Technically the voltage is lower with NiMH batteries but I haven't had any issues. Using the same rechargeable AA batteries allows you to be able to use a smart NiMH charger to recharge the whole battery pack whilst inside the Ogle. Space is tight inside, so make sure your battery will fit (battery space is approx. 108.8 x 17.1 x 26.1mm as that's the size of the holder I used).

The battery holder I used is: https://amzn.to/4mcVNrd

The battery is the tricky bit, frankly. I went with this method to get a decent capacity battery inside it. Bear in mind it draws 200 milliamps so you can calculate the rough operating time from your battery of choice.

I will be adding expansion ports as I go to allow for external charging and recording. Holes can be drilled as necessary right now for the external connections.

Fresnel Lens with 4X magnification: https://amzn.to/436gegy

These are the generic "credit card" magnifying lenses, one is needed and is cut down to fit into the Screen Compensator to make the screen easier to see.

8x 2.5x8mm screws: https://amzn.to/3EQyeDH

These are used to hold the Screen and its ancillaries together, 8 minimum unless you want to use every single screw hole on the Bezel. Might want to use longer ones if you so wish.

2X M4 nuts and 2X M4x35mm bolts:

Bolts (might need to be cut down): https://amzn.to/433yZkV
M4 nuts (you won't need 200, just an example): https://amzn.to/3Z9LMB1

3X 4x12mm screws to hold the rail on: https://amzn.to/4kt8mNt

8xM4 grub screws

Might need some spare wire too, low gauge.

Soldering Iron, Solder, Wire Strippers are needed too.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

Print parts, remove s. Press together the Chassis and the Screen Housing, make sure the switch hole is up the other end of the Chassis. It's up to you which orientation the switch is at. I have the switch underneath.

Install the switch in it's hole. I didn't bother with the nut as it gripped into the plastic quite nicely. Next you want to solder 3 wires onto the connector on the Screen module. Rather than using the connector on the top of the board we'll be soldering onto the socket's pins on the underside of the board. We only need positive, negative and the video connections. Make sure you know which of the 3 wire you soldered are which.

Slide the wires from the screen through the Screen Housing and then feed them down the Chassis. Then you will want to slide your battery inside the Chassis, the wires from everything we've installed so far should stick out the front end of the Chassis (the end with the perfect square).

Next we want to solder the wiring harness from the camera, the screen wires, battery wires, resistor and switch together. Connect the positive battery lead to one side of the switch and the negative lead to all the other negative connections (Screen and Camera negative) and the positives all need to be connected to the other side of the switch. Connect the camera's video wire to the Screen's video wire with the 75 Ohm resistor in between. Check your polarity before testing. Plug in the camera if you are happy with the polarity and then power the system up. You should get the camera's view on the screen after a second or two. If you want to add a video connector, connect it to the video feed after the resistor and the ground of the connector to the common negative connections.

The wiring can be pushed into the chassis, make sure you insulate all connections, the Camera should then press into the square hole. There is a gap in the Chassis for the cameras connector to through, you won't be able to press the camera flush if you have it in the wrong way. You might want to loosen the grub screw on the camera that stops the lens from turning, allowing for you to adjust the focus.

The Screen's driver board should lay flat inside the Screen Housing. Then you can lay the Screen flat on top of the board. You can use the buttons on the board to rotate the view until it's the correct orientation. You may want to stick some padding between the Screen and the driver board. The Screen should fit snugly into the Screen Housing, but make sure you don't pinch any wires or ribbon cables.

Next we can mount the Screen Compensator onto the housing using 4 of the 2.5mm screws. The three holes for the rail should be on top. Now you can cut down the Fresnel lens to fit into the recessed square in the Compensator. Make sure to cut the lens as central as possible, as in the concentric Fresnel rings should be as centred to the screen as possible. Mount the Bezel using the 2.5mm screws onto the Compensator to hold the lens in place. Make sure the little sunshade on the Bezel is the correct way up.

Next slide the two RIS mounts over the Chassis from the front, you may need to depress the switch to slide it over the button. Use the M4 bolts and nuts to mount the RIS mounts onto whatever rail you want. The RIS clamps should tighten up around the Ogle as you tighten the bolts.

Now the Sunshade can be slid over the Camera end. Make sure not to force it, if it's caught on the camera lens then trim it down a little. Keep it orientated straight.

Install the 8 M4 grub screws in the holes at either end of the Chassis to lock it all together. And finally mount the rail on top using the 3 12mm screws.

All done. The Ogle is complete.

Turn the camera lens to focus it. Turn it off and on with the button switch. Make sure you don't flatten the battery. A battery protector circuit is a good idea. Avoid aiming it at the sun, a brief exposure shouldn't permanently damage it, but just be careful. There is also no lens protector due to the IR blocking effects of most materials, so use this on the airsoft field at your own risk!

There currently is no reticle, that's something I'm working on.

If you want to record from the screen, I recommend using an FPV DVR like this: https://amzn.to/4k1YfPe

Let me know how you get on!

I DO NOT AUTHORISE THE RESELLING OF MY DESIGNS, PHYSICAL OR ELECTRONIC. PRIVATE USE ONLY!

For Airsoft Use ONLY! Build at your own risk! I am not responsible for any injury, damage or other repercussions from misuse.

Rifle is used for illustration purposes only! Fixings, wiring, batteries, screen, camera, switches are not included.

Printed out of eSun PLA+ ( link): https://amzn.to/4313KGX

Printed on an Ender 3 with a Creality coated glass bed.

Print Chassis upright on the camera end. Screen Housing sitting on the rounded end, Sunshade with the shade pointing up, Compensator with the lens recess pointing upwards. Bezel, RIS mount and Rail laying flat. This will require the least amount of s.

Resolution/layer height: 0.24mm at minimum, any higher and the quality drops but anything finer will just add time to the print.
Infill: 10% Grid minimum, 4 walls is a good way of increasing strength.
s: Yes on the Sunshade and Chassis, if you set the minimum angle you can make it ignore the holes which don't necessarily need s.
Bed Adhesion: Skirts are good practice, shouldn't need anything else.
Temperatures: 215 Nozzle, 60C Bed.

https://youtu.be/M0rajGyRQiQ
https://youtube.com/shorts/hCVuLH3FGWk