Snapmaker A250 Quick Change Laser & CNC Adapters

NOTE: This is a digital (STL) file to print your own laser/CNC bed adapters for the Snapmaker A250.

UPDATE: 2/6/23: It has come to my attention that Snapmaker has made some changes to the newer A250 models and the Z-axis pillars are now closer together than they used to be. To make these adapters work for this version, I have shaved off the side overhangs. I have also had a customer confirm that removing those sides solved the issue and they still work great without them. If your machine has less than 251mm between the posts, please print the "V2" versions. If you have slightly over 251mm, you'll want to print the original version.

These are designed to be printed with the Snapmaker itself and then attach to the laser bed plates and/or CNC board so you can quickly swap among 3d printing, laser, and CNC without removing the heated build plate. This is an updated and very much improved version of the adapters listed in this store for the A350. Instead of things needing to be absolutely exact to snap into place, these adapters utilize threaded bolts you can print to tighten the plates to the bed without fear of damaging the heated platform. Simply remove the magnetic build surface, place these over the heated built plate, and hand-tighten the bolts until snug.

Features:
- Easy to print (files are already rotated to a 45­° angle to fit on the build plate. Simply load and print)!
- This model has forgiving tolerances by utilizing printed plastic bolts to tighten the adapters to the machine!
- Specifically designed to fit within the Snapmaker enclosure!
- Drastically decreased time to change from 3d printing/CNC/Laser!

Shoutout to Etsy T.Koogle for helping test this design since I do not own this machine. Based on his , there are two separate versions of these adapters and the only difference is the overall thickness. Both versions should work with both the laser plates and CNC board, but he had his best results using the 7mm version for the laser plates using M4x10 hex screws and the 7mm version with M4x8 screws so the files are named accordingly.

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE FINAL INSTALLATION
The laser module needs to be recalibrated to compensate for the new bed height since we're adding onto the 3d print plate rather than removing it. This only needs to be performed once and the settings will be stored (also may need to recalibrate after firmware updates), but If the unit is not recalibrated, the laster module will smash into the bed. To calibrate, install the laser head module and power the unit on. DO NOT INSTALL THE LASER BED YET. Once the unit is powered up, begin the laser calibration as outlined in the manual. When you get to the point of adjusting the Z axis, raise the Z level using the jog mode until it's raised enough to fit the laser bed. Attach the laser plates and then continue the calibration process outlined in the manual for lowering the unit to the surface. Once the calibration is complete, you simply need to measure the material thickness and insert that value as you normally would when you begin a project. To ensure the calibration was successful, it is recommended that you begin one project with the laser bed removed, enter the material thickness, and ensure the z-axis moves to the proper location and wouldn't smash into the bed if it was installed. DO NOT ACTUALLY START THE LASER ETCH WITH THE BED REMOVED AS THIS WILL DAMAGE THE 3D PRINT BED.

Feel free to print with your desired settings, but these are the minimum recommended settings:

• Material: PLA (any hard filament will do, but PLA is easiest to print without warping)
• Infill: 20% (Plastic bolts should be ok at 20%, but may be worth increasing to make them stronger so the head doesn't break off)
• Layer Height: 0.28mm (0.2mm or better for the plastic bolts for cleaner threads)
• Rafts: No
• s: No