Seed Pixel - Singing Tree and Star top

Update - 13 May :Added the xlights model file. This is a zip file as Cults3D do not allow of the xmodel file type.

This is another in my collection of holiday props using seed pixels. I have already done a singing/talking bulb, and now we have a tree of a similar nature.

The tree is 560mm (22 inch) tall and 515mm (20 inch) wide. It is made up of 6 parts that easily fit on my Bambu P1S bed for printing, although I have designed it so that it should just fit on a 220x220 bed. I have also provided files for a set of inserts for the tree (6 parts if you include the bit for the trunk). Inserts are optional but do make the prop look good in the daytime. As an alternative you could always paint it but I would advise you do that BEFORE wiring the lights. To help with assembly I have included a diagram showing how the model is cut.

I have also included a star (and some inserts as well) which you can add to the top. This is just held on by a single csk M4 screw through the middle of the star at the top of the tree. To leave room on the back for the star wiring I have also included a spacer that fits between the star and tree.

The star is optional and thus is wired separately to the tree. This also allows for any different tree-toppers to be developed and swapped easily.

For fixing the prop to a wall, or other stand alone tube I have included some reinforcement plates and clips to fit various tube sizes. 3 sizes of clips are provided

The pixels are seed (or sometimes called pebble) pixels, you can use 5V or 12V but spacing needs to be 100mm. The seed spacing allows for a single strand (no s or splices needed) of 142 pixels, and 20 pixels for the star. The seed lights I used were very cheap from Aliexpress (for example https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007272123397.html ) and they came with a small USB controller and remote remote, which was sufficient for testing. Make sure lights work before installing them. They are ok, but there are better quality ones available. In UK/Europe I recommend that you look at https://buildalightshow.com/ for the lights (and lots of other holiday lighting stuff).

I have included a small test strip to check the size of pixels you are using will fit. If you have any issues please me for assistance.

I have included an xlights model for the tree, but it must be wired as per the supplied diagrams for this to work. The wiring diagram can also be shown in Xlights when you load the model into you layout; right click on model and choose wiring diagram. This will bring up the REAR view of the wiring diagram. The xlight model is set up with the faces sub-model to give the correct shape of face for each phoneme, which in turn will give the correct gesture when you have programmed it talking/singing in xlights. There are many tutorials on the net and you tube of how to programme these props in xlights.

Enjoy and if you have any issues please me.

Printing

This was printed on my Bambu P1S. I used PETG with a setting of 0.2mm layers,15% gyroid fill, 3 wall loops and 3 top and bottom layers. No s were needed.

In of print orientation it is straight forward to have the flat side to the bed (back of tree to bed). For the inserts I found it is better to do the front of the inserts to the bed, in this way the "seen" part of the insert takes on the neater texture of the bed.

Fixing tube clips are included. The clips are printed on their side to give the best strength in the slicing. Chose the size that suits you tube. Options 20mm, 1/2inch, 3/4 inch EMT are provided.

Assembly
The body of the tree :
The parts tend to be a tight fit, but I have always found that they will go together if gently tapped with a hammer on a solid flat surface. Take your time and line up the ts. Sometimes no glue is required, but you can do a run around the ts on the back with CA glue. If you are using the reinforcement plates you can place these at the same time.. I use the accelerator with the glue it to set it immediately. You may find a light sanding around the ts or use of a deburring tool will help if the ts are very tight.

Fixings
Glue the reinforcement plates on the back of the tree. Do this on a flat surface and add a bit of weight until the glue is dry. I haven't provided holes in the tree for this, but a diagram shows the alignment. You will note that some of the reinforcement plate bridge parts of the ts in the tree. The holes in the plates will be used to fit the clips once you have drilled through the tree. Make the holes countersunk on the tree side, that way the inserts (if using) will sit flat to the tree and hide the screws. If you are painting the tree do that before wiring.

I used M4 screws and nuts to hold on the tube clips. Choose the appropriate size of clip for the tube you are using. There is a slot in the clip to run a cable tie through it and the tube for additional security.

Inserts
Tree inserts are quite thin (0.6mm) and will normally just press into place. You can use glue to hold them in, but if you want to make them removable glues the parts together. Best way to do this is lay the inserts into the tree, tape all the t with masking tape so they are flush. gently ease out the taped insert and lay face downb on a flat surface. Smear a small amount of CA glue along the ts, leave to dry or use accelerator. remove the tape and the insert should be all ed. You can use double sided tape to hold them in place on the tree.

Star topper
The Star is just fitted with a single csk screw (M4) on the top with the spacer between the star and tree. You will have to run a drill of the appropriate size through the tree. The screw is hidden by the star insert. No xlight model is provided for the star as you can easily model this this using the generic/native model in xlights.

Wiring

You can wire this however you like but you will need to set up your own xlights model. If you are using my model it is important that you follow the wiring diagram given. The wiring diagram allows for a single 142 node strand with the only soldering of wires needed at the input and output.

To install pixels fold the cable over the pixel, slide this through the centre holes of the light mount, spread out the cable to either end (without twists in cable), and gently push the pixel to lay flat making sure the pixel light is facing the right way with the more "bulbous" side pointing outwards. Wiring is designed so that the input/output are at the bottom of the tree. I always connect the incoming and outgoing power cables together to help with power balancing. I fit a male plug to the input power and data line and I also install a female socket on the outgoing data cable to allow daisy chaining to other props, e.g. to the star.