six-hole "C" flute

this is a six-hole flute in "C". It is often used to play folk tunes. Getting started with it is quite easy.

while remaining relatively compact, it offers a deeper sound than the D flute.

-addon-

alternative flute looks in C are added to the first model.

(the first model being the translucent white, rather angular style, visible , for comparison, on the three-flute image).

the changes concern outward appearances. The sound should remain more or less the same.

the shapes of the whistles, on the side of the mouthpieces, have changes; note well.

the new files are:

"do-2-sif", "do-2-tub" and "do-2-bag" for one

(the thin embouchure of this model may surprise some),

visible in opaque white, and with more rounded shapes, on the images

then "do-3-bag" , "do-3-sif" , and "do-3-tub" for the other, visible in black and brown

on the images.

( be careful to take the 3 pieces of one, or the 3 pieces of the other;

the mixing of flute parts has not been tested and may seem strange)

printing :

-Print tested in PLA. Use rigid materials for good sound.

-Make sure you have at least 3 successive layers of wall thickness.

a good seal is important

(if necessary, set the flow rate to 102%)

-printed model with 35% filling

-bridge parameters activated: to help print "overhead" parts without excessive use of s

-you can print the "bag-do" part vertically by activating the s.

-print the "sif-do" and "tub-do" parts horizontally

for a successful print; because a bad vertical print

(not enough ing edges on the platen)

can lead to pipes tipping over during printing.

-In addition, horizontal printing on long tubular sections means greater strength along the length. And above all: good airflow (less friction), important for better sound.

for models with curves :

activate the s linked to the tray, and possibly the command

"flatten" command to optimize printing

assembly :

you need: sandpaper, cyanoacrylate glue,

a fairly long wooden stick with a diameter smaller than the inside diameter

1-deburr and sand the parts a little if necessary:

it's important that the air intake duct is clear of any debris or imperfections. You can fold a thin rectangle of sandpaper in half to stiffen it, and run it through the duct a few times.

you can scrape away any imperfections at the conduit outlet and clearance holes with a small flathead screwdriver.

forming a kind of roller with a sheet of sandpaper, you can also through the tube.

2-mark the alignment marks before assembly.

3-assembly :

you can carefully use a small hot-air gun to slightly soften the central ring: this will make it easier to fit the other two tubular parts.

if not, it may be necessary to sand the parts a little if they don't fit properly at first.

gluing: using cyanoacrylate glue (or epoxy) all around the inner walls of the ring where the ends fit together:

you can spread some a second time after pre-assembly to be sure of even distribution and sufficient glue.

Indeed, the slightest air leak in the assembly compromises the sound of the flute, and the final sound can only be heard after successful gluing.

Immediately after assembly, you can run a chopstick over the inside to remove any glue burrs before the glue sets.

this model is offered as is, (I'm not a musician) if the tones don't suit you it's not my problem; you're warned in advance by reading this.

note too low: you can carefully enlarge the hole with a file to raise the tone a little.

play:

blow normally to play the notes of the first octave

blow harder to reach the second octave

when possible, play centered on the first octave; the sound is less strident

(see explanatory images to copy/save)