Artemis Snowpeak SPA PP750 Bullpup Stock MkIII

A better version of the FN P90 inspired bullpup stock for the PP750. This stock completely replaces the original stock. It is pretty rigid when fixed and is also very comfortable to hold. Without , it reduces the overall length of the gun to around 450mm. This version has a working safety which blocks the trigger. The buttpad is vertically adjustable. There is also an optional picatinny rail at the rear of the stock and a double picatinny rail at the front.

One important detail: due to the front grip placement, you might need to remove it in order to fill the gun. There is a version with a cutout which allows filling if the port is at least at an angle of 15 degrees compared to the vertical plane. If you have a side-facing filling port, this will not be a problem.

The largest piece is 208mm tall, so make sure that fits on you printer. Alternatively, you could slice it into two parts and glue them together later on.

Hardware requirements:
- 2x M5x25mm internal hexagon + 2x M5 nut
- M5x25mm hex bolt + M5 nut
- M3x10mm countersunk x2
- M3x16mm countersunk x2
- M4x8mm screw
- 4x M4x12mm countersunk +4x M4 nut

Mounting instructions:
There is no need to empty the air cylinder, but for safety reasons, I still recommend doing it just to be safe.
The first thing you will need to do is remove the whole original grip (be careful not to lose the small spring!), the rear sight, the original stock (including the little black holders) and you need to remove everything from the barrel ( adapter, original sight, etc.) as well as the air tank.

Rail and trigger
All the original trigger parts need to be inserted into the new trigger adapter. This can then be secured to the gun with the M4 screw under the block in front of the trigger. Before sliding s onto the gun, the M4 nuts need to be inserted into them as well as the M5 nut in the rear . Next, you can slide the 2 trigger guides and trigger on the barrel and air tank. You may need to sand the trigger a bit for perfect smooth operation. Then, the rail goes on top and is secured with two M4x10 screws into the guides. This is a good time to test the trigger to see if it works good. You should be able to put the gun in safe as well.

Stock
The two main stock pieces that need to be glued together with the pins in between. For the assembly of the buttpad, you can follow the pictures. During attaching the stock to the gun the trigger safety needs to be held in place. Finally, the stock can be secured with an M5 screw into the rear and an M4 screw in the back. The front grip can be secured to the rest of the stock with the last M5 screw. You might want to paint one side of the safety red in order to know when the safety is engaged.

Finally, you can mount the cheek rest with the last two M3 screws and the optional picatinny rail. You can now put back the adapter, and you are done!

These instructions may seem difficult, but with the help of the pictures, it should not be too hard.

Let me know if there is anything wrong, or if you have any questions.

The print orientation speaks for itself for most parts. The only exceptions are the middle and front stock part, which needs to be printed with the front facing down.

Infill: at least 20%
Perimeters: at least 3, the largest part can be done with just 2 to save on filament
s: all parts are designed to be printed without s
Build plate adhesion: the front and middle part of the stock will likely need a brim to ensure good adhesion. The other parts do not need anything.