3D model description
This jig requires no special tools and minimal hardware. It is sized for the Ryobi RTR400 trim router and 17mm formply, though the STEP files are included, so feel free to resize, adjust, or fix any issues I may have overlooked.
Materials Needed:
- A wooden base and end/edge guide (I used 17mm formply and it is what the template is sized for, make sure the base is wider and longer than the sled or you will not have any where to hold/ clamp the jig)
- Two timber screws
- Six M3 nuts/machine screws
- Basic tools (drill, clamps, drill bits, and a saw)
To assemble:
1. Clamp the template to the end of your timber base.
2. Use it as a guide to press the left and right angles into place for drilling the screw holes.
3. Ensure the holes are countersunk so the jig can move freely along the workpiece.
4. For the pilot holes, in attaching the edge guide. I recommend using the two outer holes on the template (assuming you're using 17mm ply). If you're working with different stock, adjust the template in the STEP files accordingly. Avoid using the center hole since you’ll be cutting this out with your router once the jig is assembled.
5. Mount one angle mounts to the base and secure.
6. Slide the sled on to the mounted angle, and then slide the remaining angle mount into place and secure to the base.
7. Secure the sled to the angle mounts.
8. Once assembled clamp down and run the router through the sled, starting high and lowering in multiple es to cut through the base plate and edge guide.
Potential Improvements:
1. Screw Size: Switching to M4 screws could provide more material to hold them securely in place/ tightening the tolerances on the nut mounts. I had a nut that bound up and forced the nut to move more than I would like, M4 may prevent this. Using ABS I also printed at 102% which may have affected the tolerances on the M3 nut holes.
2. Sled Length: Extending the sled by another 40mm could offer more room for operation. Alternatively, removing the rounded end might allow for easier tool removal or better operation when working with shallow cuts or finishing a full-depth cut.
3. Size of the base: I cut my base to be the width of the sled, I wish I cut it to be wider to have points I could easily clamp to. Not thinking about this I made it longer so I could hold it with my hand on top of the table, holding it down in place with the idea that it would allow me to work faster doing quick small cuts.
Observations with the RTR400:
One flaw of the RTR400 trim router is the very inconvenient placement of the power switch. Reaching the top of the tool to power it off after a full-depth cut feels awkward and potentially unsafe. Using an inline foot switch could improve safety when operating a jig like this.
Safety Reminder:
Do not lose a finger!
3D printing settings
4 wall
20%-30% infill
s are required for 3/4 parts.
sled should be printed vertically on its back
mounts printed on their sides with the opening facing up.