Plus4 Articulating "No Hands" Door Hinge Seal

I try not to use brim, but any portion of a model placed near the front left door hinge tends to have adhesion issues unless the 3mm gap is sealed.

I tried using someone's TPU design that you insert into the gap after closing the door, except even printed in YELLOW, I kept trying to open the door with that part installed and the hinge was going to break at some point.

Requirements:

1. Close up all remaining air gap on the front door hinge area.

2. Can be printed using the Plus4 exclusion zone area to avoid unmodified "gaped hinges" and the adhesion problems associated.

3. Deducts a minimal amount (if any) from door open position.

4. Cannot become broken thru normal use, cannot catch at a strange angle or get into an inoperable position.

5. Minimal parts with minimal print overhead, and easy assembly.

So, I came up with a different approach that simply hinges into place, and seamlessly moves out of the way when you open the door. Quite literally, fool-proof. It also covers the gap near the hinge braces horizontally. Being air-tight was not an objective, but with little effort, I was able to optimize this to seal all known gaps within it's footprint.

Installation:

Step 1: The existing door hinge screws are reused, and the door does not need to be removed -- just remove 1 screw at a time when you install the button head screw bracket (Part A). Do the top and the bottom as your 1st steps.

Step 2: Insert Part C into each of the Part B and Part D (upper and lower).

Step 3: use two M3 x 24mm (approximately) socket cap screws (washer optional), adjusted to preference. You want free movement AND zero wobble, and this will vary by material. The top screw inserts upward, and the bottom screw inserts downward. This was the best tradeoff for -experience in the install.

Note: You will want a M3 (2.5mm) "ball end" Allen wrench ideally, because the M3's are close to the glass and you'll enjoy having a good 15-20 degree offset. For the front door glass button head screws, be sure to use the driver that came with the Plus4.

I also included a way to use the sweet-spot on your own bed and not depend upon the full length of the exclusion zone diagonal.

Edit: Removed the hex holes as they were just causing more printer effort than the aesthetic was worth.

The most resilient material I've found for general purpose needs in PETG CF, which is what I used. Some minor post processing may be needed. s needed on the V2 files, any layer height or infill (no needed for V1). The upper and lower parts are simply mirrors of each other on the X axis, as shown in the 3MF (all parts). What's posted here are STLs for the upper parts only.