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MODULR DUCT 5015 FAN, ENDER 3 S1, S1 PRO, S1 PLUS, SPRITE EXTRUDER, ACCELEROMETER, LED STRIP

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Creation quality: 4.9/5 (10 votes)
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20 files (STL, TXT, and ZIP) Close
  • List of updates.txt
  • ModulR 5015 axial fan nut M3.stl
  • ModulR 5015 axial fan.stl
  • ModulR 5015 lateral Angled.stl
  • ModulR 5015 lateral fan.stl
  • ModulR Central plate -6mm for long hotend.stl
  • ModulR Central plate.stl
  • ModulR LED stripe 42x13 .stl
  • ModulR Single Duct no nuts.stl
  • ModulR Single Duct threaded inserts.stl
  • ModulR Single Duct.stl
  • ModulR Twin Duct no nuts.stl
  • ModulR Twin Duct threaded inserts.stl
  • ModulR Twin Duct.stl
  • ModulR instructions.zip
    • ModulR instructions.txt
  • Parts List and Usage.txt
  • Ree.txt
  • accelerometer ADXL345, Sonic Pad, Mellow Fly.stl
  • accelerometer FYSETC input shaper.stl
  • accelerometer KUSBA.stl

Learn more about the formats
Last update 2023-09-14 at 19:02
Publication date 2023-08-14 at 11:59
Design number 1384818
Zuff

Zuff

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62 comments

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62 comments

skype-marine-late
skype-marine-late

My setup is an 'axial duct fan' (5015) and a 'fan duct for longer hotend.' I have linear rails on the X-axis. I can hear a rattling sound from my fans when I print at high acceleration (4800mm/s²). It seems that the fans become unstable due to the G-forces, causing them to vibrate in their bearings. I will try printing a lateral fan and see if that solves the problem (it should, at least on the duck fan). Is this something you have experienced before?

Zuff
Zuff

Hello,

I've never had a similar problem...
yanngaschen
yanngaschen

Je vois sur tes images que tu as mis les aces sur lineaires ? Aurais-tu des liens ou conseils pour er en linéaires sur la S1 plus ? Merci à toi !

Zuff
Zuff

Ca n'existe plus (Gulfcoast-robotics.com).
Et ils ont pas fait pour la s1 plus il me semble
yanngaschen
yanngaschen

Hello, du coup je vais prendre ce stl comme tu me l'as conseillé sur ma V4. Je voulais juste savoir pour mettre une led 12v vu que j'en trouve pas en 24v de petite taille sur amazon (suis nul), tu sais quel resistance je devrais mettre ?

Zuff
Zuff

Salut, j'ai cru que tu parlais de mon design V4. Tu as une S1 plus V4 enfaite? Je connais pas cette imprimante elle a bien un extrudeur Sprite comme la S1 Pro? Moi j'ai prix une ancienne bande LED en 24v autrement en 12v tu devras ajoute un abaisseur de tension mais c'est assez volumineux... Si jamais sur la description du design il y a un lien Amazon pour un LED. Autrement sur aliexpress tu peux trouver des bandes lumineuse en 24v
michaelleonard3
michaelleonard3

Hi, how do you mount the other 5015 fan on the side for the part cooling ? I don't see any part or instructions for it ? Maybe I missed it. Sorry.

And how was it "wired/spliced" ? Did you have to reverse the connection as well ?

I already printed for hot end using dual and it's good. I had a winsinn 5015 and wanted to try as per your picture and video.

Thank you.

Zuff
Zuff

Hello,

It's indicated in the design description. The side fan is another design for cooling the hotend. The link is indicated.

That way you can choose what you want to modify. The designs are designed to be used separately or together.

Zuff
Zuff

I also have another design that moves the probe without replacing the hotend fan.
EnderBot
EnderBot

Having some issues with curling in sharp corners on high speed prints with a .6 nozzle. I am using the double blower with the lateral fan.
I saw some posts on reddit claiming that the single blower actually has better pressure but this was in reference to the V4 not the Modulr, is this still true or is the double blower better? Does the Axial fan perform any better than the lateral? Overall it seems to be performing well with overhangs but the high speed corners seem tough to cool. Thanks for the help!

Zuff
Zuff

The ModulR performs slightly better than the V4. In axial position too, but the difference is minimal. You may need to adjust your pressure advance or slow down with a 0.6 nozzle, as there's more material.

EnderBot
EnderBot

Is the single blower more performant than the double blower though? What nozzle size were you using when you did you 24 minute benchy with this system? Thanks!

Zuff
Zuff

I only use 0.4 mm nozzles. The single-duct works well, with a lot of pressure on the front. The double allows cooling on both sides, not just the front. The best thing would be for you to test both to get an idea with the 0.6 mm nozzle.
GoodHope
GoodHope

Hi im new to 3D printing having s1 pro, im using [MARLIN-E3S1PROFORK-BYTT-v029] from Thomas Toka and Cura as slicer any chance you know how set fans for it? thanks in advance

Zuff
Zuff

Hi, I don't use Cura but I think you should be able to adjust the speed but not the starting power, for example. For that, you'll have to use your firmware, if it allows it.
inirem
inirem

Hey I am having a hard time understanding the difference between MorulR, V3 and V4. Can you give a short summary? Also, what are hot end duct is each version compatible with?

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
I recommend ModulR because it's the latest and most effective version. You can use longer hotends like Trianglelab.

inirem
inirem

Great thanks. Is it also compatible with the other duct?

Zuff
Zuff

What other duct are you talking about?

inirem
inirem

This one https://cults3d.sitegames.net/:896429
Or any other one for the hotend

Zuff
Zuff

Yes, it is compatible with V3, V4, ModulR
dhenry437
dhenry437

In the instructions you mention setting the off_below in Klipper and also the slicer. Would you happen to know where to set this in OrcaSlicer?

Zuff
Zuff

On OrcaSlicer, in the filament parameters, you can set a minimum fan speed.
shababhsiddique
shababhsiddique

Hello Zuff
I am already using your v4 cooling duct. I wanted to get the zero Y offset cr touch and also checkout the new duct so purchased this. But this does not seem to have the 0 y offset parts. The demo seem to be showing them though. Is it a mistake or is it really a separate purchase. Which parts should i use to use zero Y offset with this duct? I cant find something thats compatible.

Zuff
Zuff

Hello, the V3, V4 and ModulR are for material/nozzle cooling only.

Then you can add probe decallage only or probe decallage with hotend fan replacement.
Here are the two links:
https://cults3d.sitegames.net/:896429

I've separated the designs so people can choose what they want to modify.

  • 1 like
ladormos
ladormos

What should be the cable length of the fan?

Zuff
Zuff

Hello,
About 10 cm but it will depend on your installation and where you it. Simply take the measurement on your printer.
damianmroz
damianmroz

Hello ZUFF is there option to redesign center plate which is fitted for 34mm hotend to also fit mount on the bottom for beacon / cartographer probe? From my measurement it should be fairly simple as clearance above probe is required to have 20mm up and this requirement is met. Also radius is sufficient 23mm. Mounting points are 31,6 mm apart.

  • 1 like
Zuff
Zuff

Hello,

No, there is no option for that.

I don't know if it would be possible to adapt it to the ModulR because I don't have this probe...

  • 1 like
damianmroz
damianmroz

There are STEP files available for Cartographer which is the same as Beacon on GitHub. ed them and then I did put them together in slicer I can see that only central plate would need to be adjusted for two mounting points.
https://github.com/Cartographer3D/cartographer-probe/tree/main/STEP

  • 1 like
Zuff
Zuff

I'm not sure it works with the proximity of metal and magnetism to the extruder.

  • 1 like
damianmroz
damianmroz

There is mote clearance than needed using 34mm central plate for longer hotends.

  • 1 like
Akaddy
Akaddy

Hey! I have a beacon too and would love to add it to my module as well.
https://github.com/beacon3d/docs/tree/master/mcad/beacon
The red part in the step files are the keep out for metal, the green is the minimal distance to the bed. Here is one added to the twin duct for reference:
https://www.printables.com/model/413050-eva-3-beacon-probe-uhf-volcano-ducts

Cheers

damianmroz
damianmroz

I did a quick mockup in fusion360 just need to print it and test. But waiting for cartographer delivery. Will let You know. I am happy to share design of central plate with ZUFF permission.

Zuff
Zuff

It's great if you were able to adapt something. I really don't have much time for that right now...
I'll allow you to share the piece, as long as you don't share the other pieces in my design and you indicate the links.

damianmroz
damianmroz

After testing I will post only central plate on printables with recognition and links to Your design. Than You.

Zuff
Zuff

No problem. You just need to specify the same license.

Akaddy
Akaddy

Hey DamianMroz any update on this? Can I help?

damianmroz
damianmroz

I have ready design but my cartographer probe is stuck at customs. Hope it will arrive next week then I am gonna do a test.

  • 1 like
Akaddy
Akaddy

Perfect, thanks for the update. I’m waiting for some parts for the z-axis so I can’t print atm anyway.

damianmroz
damianmroz

Tested the design and it works flawlessly. Let me know if it works for You. https://www.printables.com/model/965103-modulr-middle-plate-mount-for-cartographerbeacon

Zuff
Zuff

Great! As discussed, could you put a license on Pintables that doesn't allow remixes? Thanks

damianmroz
damianmroz

Changed that. Thanks!

  • 1 like
charlie3der
charlie3der

What would happen if i printed in pla?

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
You can try it. The part near the nozzle may be deformed. I used a PLA+ test version for a long time that worked well without deforming. It will depend on the temperature of your nozzle and the bed...

charlie3der
charlie3der

I’ll use pla+ and try it

Zuff
Zuff

Yes, and if you need to, you can just redo the duct outlet in a more resistant material.
Shazklebolt
Shazklebolt

Hi Zuff,

Any instructions for mounting LED strip?

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
The easiest way is to use 24v LEDs and run the wires to the power supply. You can put a switch between the two.

Shazklebolt
Shazklebolt

Sorry, let me rephrase. I printed the ModuLR LED stripe 42.13 .stl but I am unsure where I should install this bracket to.

Shazklebolt
Shazklebolt

Can I trouble you for more pictures? Forgive me, but after installing your 4020 mods for the hotend, I'm so exhausted. Appreciate the kind gesture to guide me.
Shazklebolt
Shazklebolt

Hello, does the design incorporate for the hot end fan replacement such as Noctua NF-A40x20 fan?

Zuff
Zuff

Hello,

No, this design does not include the hotend fan. At the beginning of the description you will find the link to the 5015 or 4020 fan hotend design.
This allows you to use either of my designs separately or together depending on your choice.

  • 1 like
ladormos
ladormos

Hi I want to buy a clone triangle-lab hotend I just want to know if it’s possible with that duct and your second design “HOT END DUCT 4020“
Because of how long the hotend is and how the cr touch is positioned

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvtlDPD

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
For the CR touch, it won't change anything except that you'll have to call it at the right height.
You need to check the length of your hotend according to the information I've given in the description and on the photos. I'm using the Trianglelabs hotend, which is 10mm longer than the original. See the length of the one you want to buy... I don't know all the models. I recommend the Triangle lab one, but I haven't heard much about the clones...

ladormos
ladormos

How do I measure exactly
Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
It looks like the original Sprite Pro kit on the Ender 3 S1 Pro, so yes it will be compatible.

  • 1 like
clandestineplebeian
clandestineplebeian

Zuff,

What is the best way to line up the ducts with the nozzle? Do you have a jig or can you make on similar to the one the taurus double fan duct design uses? I tried their jig fir this but it will not work.

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
You can print the right thickness of wedge (see design documents). Then place the nozzle against your bed and use the wedge to adjust the height of the duct.

clandestineplebeian
clandestineplebeian

Hello,

I do not see anything in the files about a printable wedge?

clandestineplebeian
clandestineplebeian

If I design my own wedge, how tall should it be?

Zuff
Zuff

No, there is no spacer in the files.

It is indicated in the instruction files, 2 mm between conduit and bed for single and double duct.

clandestineplebeian
clandestineplebeian

I see, I must have missed that. Thank you.

  • 2 likes
Zuff
Zuff

No worries. You're welcome.

  • 1 like
halo-6iw9
halo-6iw9

Hi Zuff,

I am currently using the Triangle Labs Hot end with the extended center plate but it still seems that the extra clearance is not enough as the duct still sits too high up on the hotend. Do you have plans to release a futher extended plate or is there a way around it?

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,

I use the same configuration, as many people and I have no problem. Do you have the original Triangle Lab CHCB-OT hotend?

The ModulR duct sits higher than on my previous designs.
Have you checked in the design files the height to be respected? This is measured under the plastic of the duct and not the air outlet and up to the end of your nozzle.
If you have a small difference, it won't make much difference.

If you're still having problems, it's possible that your hotend isn't positioned correctly. Not high enough in the extruder. Or you may have replaced the nozzle with a longer model?

Sorry for my English, I use a translator.
ericfelipesaco
ericfelipesaco

I already use the V3 version, now I will use a TriagleLabs Hotend. Is this version better than V3 for me?

Zuff
Zuff

Hello,
Yes, the "ModulR" is the most advanced and is compatible with Trianglelab's longer hotend, you need to use the extended center plate for longer hotend.
john-iveson
john-iveson

hi i just printed out all parts needed but you talk about adjusting the setting on klipper , i have not got the sonic pad yet and im still using the cura will i still need to adjust the setting ? if so how ?

  • 1 like
Zuff
Zuff

Hi,
for the ModulR design, you don't have to adjust anything except the fan speed to suit your filament (slicer). For PLA you can leave the fan speed at 100%, but for other filaments like PETG you'll need to lower it to 30-40%.

  • 2 likes
john-iveson
john-iveson

thank you for your speedy replay , i tend to use the presets for the material in use. checking PETG it already is set to 40% so i think i'm good

  • 1 like
Zuff
Zuff

Yes, as the fan is more powerful, you may have to turn it down a little with some materials. For PLA, keep it at maximum and you can increase your printing speeds.

  • 1 like
BrianI
BrianI

It looks like my Sonic Pad has updated, and I've lost the modified printer.cfg I had been using for the Modulr Duct and the zero offset hot end cooling duct.

I can't seem to find the required printer.cfg settings in the s for my Ender 3 S1 (Non pro, running a Sonic Pad)

Zuff
Zuff

I did not receive notification of your message. Have you solved the problem?
Normally you can use my configurations indicated with the design. Make a copy of your files afterwards.

BrianI
BrianI

I ended up switching back to the stock hot end cooler, as the settings for the Zero Y offset duct didn't seem to work with my Ender 3 S1.

Zuff
Zuff

Strange... was it the configuration that was going wrong?

BrianI
BrianI

It looks like it was something wrong with the configuration for the bed mesh limits and probe offset. Now I've a working configuration I'll back it up and have another look at the zero offset hot end 5015 mount. The stock hot end cooler is noisy!

  • 1 like
Raidlock
Raidlock

Hi Zuff, about to purchase this and the zero Y offset STLs, but wanted to ask first. Is there any specific reason why in the lateral fan configuration the fan is at an angle away from the motor and not just upright to keep the center of gravity closer to the 2020 profile/X-axis linear rail? Airflow purposes?

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,

Thank you for your interest.

The flow is better with inclination but that's not the main reason.

If the fan is close to the extruder motor, the magnetism of the motor (magnets) causes the fan to slow down.
So there's a loss of efficiency.

Best regards

Zuff

Raidlock
Raidlock

Ah, makes sense, thanks for the explanation. Got the designs, now we play the waiting game until the 5015 fans and the CHCB-OT hotend (and all the other upgrade parts) arrive :D

  • 1 like
Zuff
Zuff

Superb, it's going to change your life with the hotend and fans. You'll be able to increase speeds!

  • 1 like
printgain
printgain

Hi, came here to say thanks for your wonderful design! Just finished assembling it and ran a first test (lateral fan + twin duct). Now I can print 20° overhangs with no issues.

The wires on my print were indeed reversed but I spotted that in advance.

The only I have (and which I had a problem with). In the instructions it says: Place the bottom of the duct (the lowest part of the plastic) 2 mm above the nozzle/platter for the "Twin Duct" version.
In my case I screwed it in with the screws aligned all the way down because I couldn't figure out a way to easily measure this. Do you have any recommandations for that which you can add to the ree?

For future readers, this is what I bought which worked wonderfully:
Screw set: https://amzn.eu/d/cGkyjzV
Fan set: https://amzn.eu/d/dVqnpC1
JST connectors: https://amzn.eu/d/7GyBZFi (I didn't want to use the original wire from the original fan if something goes wrong)
Solder connectors: https://amzn.eu/d/4xGXrs5 (works with a heatgun)

printgain
printgain

Sorry missed something: If you planning to purchase the GDSTIME 5015 fans, be aware that they have a tiny plastic piece on the front of the fan (not the long piece, the short piece). This interferes with the design so that the fan will not fit inside (at least on the lateral mount). I just cut that little piece off and the fan fit perfectly.

Zuff
Zuff

Hi,

Thanks for your and glad it's working properly now!

For the height of the duct, the easiest way is to place a wedge between your bed and the duct. But it's just an indication, we're not within 0.10 mm.

Best regards

Zuff

  • 1 like
GAZUVYX
GAZUVYX

Hello zuff, I can't figure out from the pictures if this only contains a duck for partcooling or also for the heater block.

Zuff
Zuff

Hi, there,
The design is for material cooling only. At the beginning of the description there is a link to the other hotend cooling design. You can use them separately or together.

GAZUVYX
GAZUVYX

OK, thank you for the awnser.

  • 1 like
gasimoto
gasimoto

Bonjour,
est ce possible d'avoir un code promo pour ceux qui ont déjà acheté une V3 ?
Merci d'avance
Cordialement

gasimoto
gasimoto

Super merci d'avoir pris en compte ma demande. Tu es trop fort !

  • 1 like
caste102
caste102

Hello,
What is the easiest way to plug the LED strip? can I plug it with the fan in parallel (soldering the led strip to the fan conector) ?
I have a CR10 Smart Pro

Zuff
Zuff

No, you can't, because your fan won't always run at the same speed, and I don't know if the card can handle it... The best is to pull two wires to your power supply and use 24v LEDs if you have a 24v power supply. I added a small switch in between.

  • 1 like
caste102
caste102

I plugged both my fan and led stripe to the fan header, and at least with the leds I bought from aliexpress, it works, sort of, at 80% fan speed, leds are fully lit. less than that and the leds flicker. I'll get some wire and plug it to the power supply next. I had to try!

  • 1 like
cbramsey
cbramsey

This may sound like a rookie question (because it is) but where did you get the screws, I guess I thought the ones I removed would work but they are not long enough.

Zuff
Zuff

Hi there,
I use this type of screw: https://www.amazon.com/1305Pcs-Metric-Assortment-M2-M3/dp/B0C1GFRHGX/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=3L90IGNY5TX48&keywords=screw+kit&qid=1706545959&sprefix=scew+kit%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-16
If ever in the description I have indicated the size of screws to use.

cbramsey
cbramsey

Great, thank you for quick reply, by the way, file printed great, can wait to get it installed

  • 1 like
richamc01
richamc01

"You'll find an assembly help file with more information in the files."

There's no help file in the ...
Can this be provided?

Zuff
Zuff

Hi, Instructions for assembly and adjustment are included. What are you missing?

richamc01
richamc01

Thanks for getting back to me! I don't have the instruction file. I also purchased hot end duct and there is a folder called "assembly instructions." There is no such file with this .

Zuff
Zuff

I've just tested the and the files are there in the .zip file "ModulR instructions".

  • 1 like
rafaelponte
rafaelponte

PETG printing is making more strings than using native ventilation. Any suggestions to improve this? I've already changed the speed between 30 - 70% and it didn't change the strings. I printed the same file before and after changing the ventilation system for comparison.

Zuff
Zuff

Hello
With PETG, the maximum speed of my fan is 30-40%. The best thing is to re-test your filament as they are all different. I use the automatic mode and it doesn't run all the time.

damianmroz
damianmroz

Can You point me out where can I find and set that automatic cooling?

Zuff
Zuff

It's probably already active. On PrusaSlicer or Orca, you'll find it in the filament parameters in the cooling tab. You can set the fan's minimum and maximum time per layer.
The fan then adjusts the automatic speed.

  • 2 likes
olandese
olandese

Thank you very much for making this available, I just bought this set and can't want to test it.
Can you please share a link to the right PicoBlade 1.25 connector to use?
I searched a bit but I am not sure which one to buy, some say that JST GH 1.25 should also be good.

Zuff
Zuff

Hello,
I don't have a link, I ordered a box on Aliexpress I think. It's been a while... It's JST 1.25. I don't know if the GH are compatible but I think they are different.

  • 1 like

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