MMU BOWDEN TUBE AND NOZZLE CAM ADAPTER ENDER3 V3 KE - P1M10

Intro

I bought the Ender3 V3 KE as replacement of a Ender3 S1, because it's a really cheap but well working machine for a print farm.
It have anyway issues for my use case, it doesn't have a bowden tube connector for using it with a MMU.

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Description

I designed this adapter, that add a M6 PC4 connector for a PTFE tube on top, a 7mm for a USB nozzle camera and a mount for Fysetc PIS input shaper.
Under the PTFE tube fitting there's place for a microswitch to be used as filament sensor, or in my case as extruder sensor in combination with HappyHare and MMU unit.

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BOM

• 1 x M6 PC4 connector
• 2 x M2x16 screws and nuts for fixing the sensor
• 4 x M3x8mm screws
• 1 x microswitch as filament sensor https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005924250789.html (one with wheel)
• 1 x Fysetc PIS input shaper (optional) https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004555226273.html
• 1 x 7mm USB endoscope with flexible cable (optional) https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004333334502.html
• 3 x M3 threaded inserts

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Assembly

Use a 2mm drill bit to that the filament path is clean, and check also the inside of the sensor housing that is clean from any plastic residue.

Insert the 3 M3 threaded inserts in their holes, you can skip this if you don't need to install the camera or the input shaper sensor

Install the M6 PC4 connector in it's place, can be difficult to install it as M6 threads are not easy to print in this orientation. Be sure to fit it alligned othewise the filament will not go smootly inside the hole

! These adapters comes with a hex hole inside the is pretty small and can lead to blocks of loading/unloading process with the MMU, with the filament head get stuck inside. You can use a 2/3 mm drill bit to enlarge this section, be aware to not damage the coupler doing so !

Slide in the filament sensor already wired and secure it with the 2 M2x16 screws and nuts with relative washers. Try with a piece of filament that the sensor will trigger correctly, otherwise modify the holes position if needed

! This kind of sensor is cheap and quite reliable, but it's stroke is quite big in comparison with the filament width, so there's a little margin of error in mounting the sensor. It will need adjustments !

Remove the original extruder cable fixer, and the 2 lateral screws of the original cover, and try to install the adapter in it's place.
Check that the filament can go through and enter the extruder head

Unfortunately not all the heads are alligned correctly, so it may need some adapting

If filament can move freely proceed with fixing the adapter with 4 M3x8mm screws.

Once done this you can install the nozzle camera, check that is correctly oriented and with a capless screw M3 fix it in the correct orientation, use some threadlock to prenvent unscrewing with vibrations.

! DO NOT OVERTIGHT THE SCREW AS IT WILL BREAK THE CAMERA !

You can also proceed in mounting the PIS input shaper as shown in pictures

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Electrical connection

I connected the filament sensor to the same connector of the original one, this remove the need of more wirings and it gives the advantage of being close to the extruder, and so preventing the issue of when the filament can broke after the filament sensor and don't trigger it.

! DANGER ! modify the original electric circuit of the printer only if you know what you're doing

Both PIS and nozzle camera are USB so they are just plug an play

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Compatibility List

• Creality Ender 3 V3 KE

On my printer the size are correct, but in this orientation the M6 thread is not perfect, but as it needs to be installed just once it should not be an issue.

P1M10 - Main Assembly

Print with the frontal part down on the plate

• Material: PLA or ABS
• Perimeters: 3
• Infill: 15-30%
• s: Yes (look at the slicer screenshot)