Ender NEO Series Upgraded Printhead With Improved Part Cooling

The greatest shortcoming for the Ender NEO series printers is the part cooling capability. This 3D printable upgrade solves that completely.

FEATURES:
-Dual optimized part cooling ducts designed for maximum flow
-Dual 5015 part cooling blowers
-Prints in 3 parts
-Easy to assemble
-Optimized heatsink cooling with 4020 fan
-75 degree overhang printing
-Probe Mount

This printhead upgrade is compatible with Ender 3 V2 NEO, Ender 3 Max NEO, and Ender 3 NEO. It offers significantly better part cooling and heatsink cooling. A pair of 12V 5015 blower fans blow air through the gradually tapered ducts to allow for SIGNIFICANTLY better overhang and bridging performance (75 degrees). Using 2 blowers wired in series allows for less noise during operation depending on which blower fans you choose. The heatsink fan accepts any 24V 4020 fan including Noctua silent fans. The intake is designed to optimize airflow through the heatsink to prevent heatcreep completely as well as reduce noise.

It is printed in 4 parts with only 1 part requiring s on the build plate only. The 2 ducts should be printed with a brim. PLA is fine. PETG is arguably better if you can print it without stringing.

https://youtube.com/shorts/2ngzJBRG5CM?feature=share

REQUIRED MATERIALS:
-Any 12V 5015 Blowers 2X
-Any 24V 4020 Fan
-something to cut, strip, and connect wires

REQUIRED M3 HARDWARE:
-4X M3*25mm screws
-4X M3x20mm screws
-4X M3*5mm screws
-2X M3*8mm screws
-10X M3 nuts

PRINTING:

USE 0.2 LAYER HEIGHT
Use whatever settings work best for you. Here is what worked well for me on stock my Ender 3 Max Neo:

PLA
Nozzle Diameter: 0.6mm
Nozzle Temp: 220 degrees
Bed Temp: 60 degrees
Walls: 3 perimeter walls
Infill: 10%

PRINTHEAD FRAME and PROBE mount must be printed with tree touching the buildplate. is not necessary for bridged overhangs. PRINTHEAD FRAME has sacrificial bridges over the holes which attach to the printer. These are designed to either be removed with a knife or punched through with an M3 screw.

LEFT DUCT and RIGHT DUCT must be printed with a brim.

WIRING:

Consult the image of the wiring above.

The 24V 4020 fan is a direct replacement for the 24V 4010 fan. If your cables do not reach the mainboard connector, cut and strip both cables and connect red to red and black to black.

The 12V 5015 blowers must be wired in series because the wiring to the old blower is 24V. To do this, attach the red wire of the first blower to the black wire of the second blower. Then attach the remaining red wire to the red wire from the old blower and do the same for the black wires.

ASSEMBLY:

Consult the animation for the recommended order of assembly. Feel free to message me with any questions or issues. The only step not shown in the animation is the removal of the heatsink. This step allows the PRINTHEAD FRAME to screw into the printer. The heatsink can be reattached easily once the piece is installed. Be sure to move the wiring for the hotend to the left of the heatsink where I have designed a gap for it.

The M3 nuts act like threaded inserts and the fit is tight on purpose. Use pliers to seat them or thread them on a screw and pull them into place.