Ender 3 s1 / s1 pro bluetooth shutter mount for timelapses

i needed a way to fix this shutter to the printer, as slick and nice looking the ender 3 s1 is, there arent any easy ways to fix it but i think i managed to create something useful.

WHAT TO PRINT:

you will have to print the mount (BTshutterAdaptorEnder3s1.stl) and the pusher (pusher.stl).

HOW TO PRINT:

for the adaptor i used prusaslicer: 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 3 walls, 4 top layers, 4 bottom layers, tree s, zhop on (so i did not knock over the s), and added 8mm of brim to the s so they did not fell, also to remove the s easier i put the top z distance of the s at 0.15mm.

for the pusher i printed with 5mm of brim since is a very small piece and i didnt want to fall over, but print with watever settings you want.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:

BTshutterAdaptorEnder3s1.stl
pusher.stl
2 M3 X 8mm screws
the shutter, i used this one: https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Wireless-Bluetooth-Shutter-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SRLD1K4ZS6ZE&keywords=bluetooth+shutter&qid=1679101274&sprefix=bluetooth+shutte%2Caps%2C255&sr=8-4 (not an link, i do not live in the states nor EU so i did not buy it from that link. where i live that same model is the cheapest that i found online)

HOW TO MOUNT:

to mount the pusher i took out 2 of the screws that are mounted to the right of the sprite extruder (those are m3 x 6mm) (look at pictures) and attached it with some m3 x 8mm. you might be able to print the part of the pusher that goes against the extruder a little thinner and try to use the stock screws, but since i had some laying arround i used them. be aware that if you print that part thinner you are getting the part that pushes the shutter a little bit shorter and might have to adjust later.

to mount the adaptor just insert the part where it is on the images, but to make it easier try to insert it at a 45 degree angle (3rd picture) and that should hold it quite securely, you dont need any fasteners for this, its just a friction fit.

NOTES:

notice that the shutter i used has 2 buttons, this is designed to push the button that points towards the back of the printer. That means that if you are like me and will use an android phone the little tabs on the shutter will be on the way and wont fit onto the printed part so i just clipped them with some snips and then file it down flush so nothing sticks out

i added the .step and .f3d so you can modify it in any way you want or need.

SLICER SETTINGS:

if you dont know how to set up the timelapses here you have 2 nice tutorials:

for prusaslicer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgZZzi6sRDU&list=PL46S4toIwFpqnUXauI9fQxVDhdHxZ0Vdh&index=2&t=600s&ab_channel=KatzCreates

for cura:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6aeQDzIpT4&t=204s&ab_channel=Kurzey

for the adaptor i used prusaslicer: 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 3 walls, 4 top layers, 4 bottom layers, tree s, zhop on (so i did not knock over the s), and added 8mm of brim to the s so they did not fell, also to remove the s easier i put the top z distance of the s at 0.15mm.

for the pusher i printed with 5mm of brim since is a very small piece and i didnt want to fall over, but print with watever settings you want.