Creality CR - 5 Pro Upgrades

Modulus air filtration unit is now a part of this package and my thank you for your .
Read more about it at this link.
It uses lowcost 80x80 usb fans from amazon with 3 speed settings.
I buy microfiber filters for vacums i cut to size.
For active carbon filtering i buy filters for compost buckets.
This is designed to draw hot air from the top to circulate it to bottom, to give better and more even chamber heating while cleaning the air.

Very important.........
I use glued on magnets so it sticks to the side of the 3d printer and not moving around!!!!!!

https://cults3d.sitegames.net/en/3d-model/tool/modulus-air-filtration-system-for-3e-printing

Added is the top side piece.
You use 2 and clamp them together with screws to stick to Topl.
Each side uses 4 and for the front i cut a acrylic to fit i glued on.
This is only used to be able to use the cover if you do the direct drive mod.
See picture with long leggs to see it on.

Added long leggs for floor placement and extra bonus of tpu antivibration feet.
Leggs do you print with petg or tougher and 25-35 gyroid infill and 4-5 walls and top/bottom.
Wanted a floor placement and to be able to vacum under it.
Tpu parts is more how hard you want them but dont recomend to soft under 3 walls/top and bottom.
And i dont recomend lower then 10 percent gyroid infill.
Tpu parts is simplier with the direct drive mod.

E.Fit extruder adapter for more options on your cr5.
Its made to be simple to swap back to bowden if you have to or back to direct drive.
Very easy to set e steps in start gcode or thru pronterface.
I made a simple gcode file in notepad + where i set the e steps and saved to eproom in 2 lines.
Then on the machine i simply runed it as a ordinary print file and all where done.
Print it with petg or tougher as strong as possible and the small round bits are adapters to thread in the coupler in the plastic.
There is 2 lengths and i use the shortest.

Tank extruder mount is a blend of 2 old ones.
And make it easier to use runout sensor and original top cover.

Force extruder mount is only if you want to shorter tubing extremely short on the cr5.
I disabled the fillament detector with a small piece of fillament to not have to redisgn everything to fit it so far.
You have to cut a new opeining in the cover for the much shorter tubing and be carefull when doing it.
Iam down on very low retractions depending on type of fillament and should lower it by 1-2 mm when done right compared to original 5 mm.
I am also on lower retraction speeds 25-40 mms depending on fillament.
On nylon i more or less disable retraction to cut down on cloggs and it dont string much when dry.

The stated 40 mm fan bracket is for 50 mm fans and iam sorry for the typo.

I recomend parts to be printed in a tough material like petg or tougher but some parts will work fine with pla.

The mods i do! Is on a machine i use for parts in the food industry where the demand on the parts are tough.
So my part mods are for print quality on the printed parts to attract less bacteria with as little surface marks as possible.
The machine more or less prints petg so many mods are done for that.

The parts on the machine is usually done to be printed fast in less quality to explain the print quality.

Print cooler is best printed slow with cooling on!!!!!

I want to have the top on even when printing pla/petg so made these spacers.
They are made to vent out some hot air to not mess up pla prints.
I have a high temp cr-5 pro h machine.

This is a simple print.

Read text on hotend kit on how i printed.

3 walls
3 top/ bottom layers.
layer height 0.2-0.4
50 mms speed.
10-20 percent infill.