Traxxas TRX4m LCG Chassis Frame

Today I'm here to present you, my idea of a LCG chassis for the Traxxas TRX4m.
Before I proceed, I must tell you that this chassis completely change the basice idea around the bulky TRX4M amd it is conceived to sit low, inclined and without heavy modifications, it is not possible to adapt standard body kits. It is designed mainly for the short wheelbase TRX4M and for a laydown servo horizontally hosted onto the front axle. This chassis will bring the concept closer to the Axial SCX24 rather than the Traxxas TRX4m, but the performance improvement is remarkable.

KEY FEATURES
- Low Weight (both rails at 100% infill weights 16g)
- 5° skid inclination
- Several setup option for shock positioning
- Battery box close to the transmission
- Velcro or magnets body fastening
- Wide servo space for flexing
- Editable Skid Plates
- Editable Body Hinge
- No need for nuts, everything can be bolted in place

COMPATIBILITY NOTE
This model is only compatible with standard or 3rd party transmission with motor facing forward.
It is not compatible with Injora 370 motor or Injora Fat Viper.
Without giving up the battery box, is not possible to mount the transmission inverted.
This model is compatible only with horizontal servos on axles.

OPTIONS USAGE
There are several options that can be configured and printed to match your perfect setup and I will describe them one by one

Front s --
You can use the Short ones if your setup will include the usage of the upper holes for shocks. In that case, you can even pair them with the provided front duomi bar to increase rigidity.
They come with a magnet version (15mm x 1mm) ora a flat version for using velcro to fasten the body.
The Fat versions are the same but will cover all the holes and have a special arc to fit motors.

Battery boxes --
All battery boxes are 63mm wide.
There are four kind of battery boxes that need to be screwed to the frame by using 4 m2.5 bolts.
- 16mm version that will hold small 450mAh 3S batteries (funfly, tattu etc)
- 21 mm version for the same batteries but layed down
- 31.5mm version for larger batteries
- 31.5mm version covered if you need extra space on top for wiring.
The battery is secured with two small velcro straps 1cm wide, all boxes got proper holes to guarantee the ing of the straps.
The only one that need just one strap is the last version because it got the extra covered parts that allows batteries 31.5 x 15 x 63mm in size.

Rear --
As much as the front s you got a short version that can work combined with the Duomi or two fat versions with Magnet holes or flat that will cover all the shock holes

Skids --
Two version are available.
The standard version that will screw together with the upper links and that is also editable by providing the STEP files in the "Editables" folder and a walled version that I created as extra wall for positioning various kind of electronics

Hinge --
You can use the Duomi here if you plan to use a full velcro or magnet setup or, in case you want to print your own body, there is an editable hinge available in the folder "Editables" so you can adapt it to your own body.

BULDING REQUIREMENTS
Once you chose what kind of options are good for you, print them along with the two frame rails and print a grand total of 4 WASHERS that you will use for each shock between the frame and the shock.

STEP BY STEP BUILDING GUIDE
- Mount is your lower links to your skid plates else, by how the frame is conceived, you won't be able to.
- Secure the skid to the frame rails by using the small bolt next close to the front upper links
- Secure the skids (optional) by installing a longer screw along with the upper links.
- Mount the front of choice and shocks in the desired position ( the washers)
- Mount the rear of choice and shocks in the desired position ( the washers)
- Install the velcro straps in the chosen battery box
- Secure the battery box to the frame
- Install function parts (transmission, axles, etc.)
- Install electronics
- Install body with rear hinge or rear duomi

That's it.
As you can see in the pictures there's a photo of the rig I currently use as my competition rig, based on that chassis.

If you need special modifications or to report an issue, feel free to me. I will be more than glad to improve my design because you're never done with that hobby. There's always a lot to learn.

You can use PLA, PETG, ABS or ASA.
I chose PETG for mine with a 0.2 layer height and 10% infill but you can go as high as 100%