Axial Scx10 pro chassis kit

Budget build Amazon/Aliexpress carbon fiber scx 10pro chassis kit(same as stock rails just carbon fiber) designed to go with injora lcg trans or a 3gear trans.

4 link soa setup is what this design is for but will work with 3 link panhard and chassis mount servo but will have to source your own servo mount and panhard mount

*centered injora trans skid
*offset injora trans skid
*3gear v2 skid (motor to front)
*3gear skid (motor to back) front axle with offset diff.
mirror v2 wedge file in your slicer to get a spare wedge..
*3gear (motor back) V3 for offset diff use this if you if you have the trans that you can flip the motor plate and run the motor to the front. lowers motor a few mm for better CG and will still clear front upper link mounts....
*blank skid to drill your own holes

*sliders with battery strap slots
*sliders with battery strap slots and body post holders
*v2 sliders slim works with creep cab body
*v3 slider is wider and longer for larger style half cabs
*forward battery tray with strap slot
*v2 center battery tray LOW,MID+3mm,HIGH +6mm (for 3gear trans layout) could also mount esc or receiver
*bumpers front and rear
*bumpers 12mm lower
*stinger bumpers uses 1/4in or 6mm round stock. Note screws on both files the metal so you will have to trim a slot to get clearance for the screw see picture. IMPORTANT that you use a m3x16 or longer this will give the print its strength compressing the layers and makings splitting the bumper less likely. M3 grub screw to help hold it in place. they can hold up to some pretty hard abuse in my testing.
*single chassis braces
*clamping body post holders for shock towers
*wire clamp (injora skid)

*M3x40 cap head to mount sliders into skid without sliders M3x35 button head

*offset shock mount for rc crawler shocks with 12mm O.D body.
(lets you run a longer shock with the same ride height and lets you adjust ride height easily without having to change shocks, use shock keys or without the need for new shock towers.)
3 different offsets
clamps right to the body of the shock.
2 different shock top end deletes
1-m3 rod end
1-m3x10 for clamp
1-m3x10 or longer for rod end

1.9 beadlock wheel
24mm inner ring
30.75mm wide including beadlock rings
*V1 uses aluminum bead lock rings
Harware need for one wheel
1-aluminum ring
1-wheel hub aluminum or brass
24-m2x6 cap heads for ring
6-m3x10 for hub
6-m3x16 to clamp back half to front
*V2 uses printed ring 6 or 12 hole
1-wheel hub aluminum or brass
12 or 6 -m3x6 for ring
6-m3x10 for hub
6-m3x16 to clamp back to front
*Both V1 and V2 use the same inner ring and back
*NOTE 1 will not fit aluminum or brass inner rings. had to slightly over size the wheel for strength and durability. could possibly sand or grind the aluminum or brass inner ring down slightly to fit
*NOTE 2 print out 1 wheel check fitment on you rig for clearance around the steering knuckle. ONLY 35.5mm of clearance inside back of wheel
*May have to drill out holes for m3 harware depending on the quality of your print. i dont recommend it but i power drive all the hardware be careful not to over tighten them or melt the treads from the friction of running them in
*You can source hardware on Amazon, Ebay, ect m3 assortment pack is around 10$ish can do 2 full sets and have extra hardware left over. Usually the aluminum rings and hubs come with hardware

Do not generate in screw holes

min thickness recommended

1.2mm top/bottom
1.6mm walls
I used petg