Osca Light Assault Speeder

The notorious assault speeder from the enclaves. Buildable with a force field crew cover (as shown) or in fully open-topped style. The side turret weapon mounts are compatible with other Τ drone-mounted weapons and if you wish to use other models for the front gun, stubs compatible with the hull mount are included with the STL files (centered on origin coordinates).

All parts come pre-ed (along with uned ones).

The following 'vitamins' are needed to make the model as moveable/poseable as intended:
1mm thick rod, 20mm long (front gun horizontal rotation)
1mm thick rod, 9.8-10.0mm long, x2 (for drone turret vertical gun rotation)
2mm diameter, 2mm tall magnet (on the hull for front gun vertical rotation and to be swappable)
2mm diameter, 2mm tall magnet, x4 (to make seekers detachable)
2mm diameter, 1mm tall magnet, x2 per each front gun (2-3 variants)
3mm diameter, 3mm tall magnet, x4 (for drone turrets to be detachable)
5mm steel body piercing ball with M7 Wire Snap Ring (for the base with a poseable ball-t)

The base shown on the photos uses 5mm diameter body piercing ball screwed through the model, but a 'normal' flying stand with 2mm tip can also be used without modifying/drilling the hull.

Model must be assembled in the following order:
1) Front Gun Rotaa placed inside the hull and pinned from the bottom.
2) Crew Shell glued to the Main Hull (and the C. - Assist also glued in)
3) Crew Legs glued to the Crew Shell/Main Hull
4) Crew BackRest glued to the Crew Shell/Main Hull
5) Crew Chest glued to the Legs

(Do NOT glue crew chest to the legs first - they would not fit in after that. Also note that the 2 crew leg pieces are not interchangeable front to back.)

For making the force field bit crystal clear, first sand it down to 1000-1500 grit, then either:
a) take your time and just polish it (I used acrylic polishing paste with a small cloth dremel wheel)
b) use a clear coat spray
c) try to cover it uniformly by i.e. epoxy, or by the same clear resin you printed it with (may need an IPA wash after as the outer resin exposed to oxygen does not cure) - this is least likely option to yield good results.

(Note that the 3d printing UV resin can have a different refraction index from a clear coat spray or epoxy, this is why the sanding absolutely might be needed unless you're using the same resin as a coating.

Then glue it with PVA, try to use very little of it so it doesn't spill on the inside - outside spills can be cleaned by a damp cloth. After that I'd recommend using black wash on the seam between the transparent and opaque plastic (you can clean the excess after it's dry with a cloth wet with alcohol.)