Read this before you these files. I have had a lot of requests to this project, but not time to do a detailed step-by-step instruction. There are images attached to each section showing the assembly and further details. Please ask in the comment section when something is unclear and I will try to explain as good as I can.
Needed equipment:
540 size RC car motor, receiver,
Steering servo: Turnigy TG9 or similar (L22,8xW12xH16,22mm)
A lot of countersunk M2 screws in various length, I recommend buying a bag of long ones, like 20 or 25mm (buy 50 or 100pcs). I have used those for most of the structure and cut them to suitable size with a pair of pliers. If you are uncertain of the length, stick a thin screw driver or pin in the screw hole and check the print depth and cut the screw a bit shorter so that it does not reach the bottom.
Most is M2 as described above, but some exceptions are:
Rear suspension:
6x M3x40
2x M3x15
2x M3x 10 (or 15, minimum 10 but longer is OK.)
Front suspension:
All M2 in different lengths.
6pcs Ball ts 4mm diameter and with countersunk M2. These can be purchased as spare parts for in RC shops or on eBay.
Wheel shaft screws:
Front: 2pcs M3x20
Rear: 2pcs countersunk M3x30
Shock absorbers:
I used 1/10 Turnigy Trackstars from Hobbyking, but they don't seem to be available. You should be able to find similar if you search for shocks for 1/10. The length in the CAD for normal resting stance is around 46mm (C-C), which means in slightly compressed mode.
Ballbearings:
Front wheel bearings: 4pcs 8x4x3mm (OD, ID, W).
Rear wheel bearings: 4pcs 16x8x4mm (OD, ID, W).
Drivetrain bearings:
3pcs 21x15x4mm (One is to the motor pinion but if the motor sits well secured this isn't really needed).
The differential mechanics can handle a few different outer diameters of the smaller bearings (A on the explode view), different STL's available. The dimensions are:
2pcs 8-9-10mm outer, 5mm inner, 2-4mm thickness.
Lights:
Fiberoptic wires for headlights: ~0,5mm thickness.
I bought a fiberoptic lamp and cut the wires of it.
Headlight LED's: 5mm diameter.
Turn signal LED's in rear view mirrors: pre-soldered SMD0402 or similar. You can use this type also for rear and position lights.
Use clear lexan plastic for window and headlights.
Electronics. This assumes you have basic knowledge of LED's and microcontrollers. If you don't, I suggest to buy an Arduino starter kit and do some tutorials, and also check tutorials on how to choose the right resistors for LED's. If you just connect LED's straight to the Arduino or to the RC receiver, you will likely burn either the LED or the controller/receiver as well since LED's need current limiting resistors.
I used an Ardino Nano to control the LED's, it reads two RC-channel and control the lights. Source code is included.
There are no connection diagram, but in the Arduino code you can see what I/O channel is used for which function.
For example, HL on Arduino Nano pin 3 is used for headlights.
The comment for each defined channel might be confusing, but this refers to what pin on the output two-row pin header they go to. connect one of the rows to GND and the other to the respective arduino pins. As you can see in the source code, for each of the two turn signal arduino pins, I have three output pins. This is to be able to connect the three turn signal LED's on each side of the car using different cables and not have to wire it all together.
Example:
#define LST 9 //Left Side Turn lights Pin 9, 10, 11.
This means pin 9 on the Arduino Nano for the three turn signal LED's on the left side, and I routed them to pin 9, 10 and 11 on the output header.
RC channel 1 is read through pin 4 and controlls the turn signal, while channel 2 on pin 13 controls different light options.
that GND and +5V from the receiver needs to be connected to the Arduino VCC as well.
I apologize in advance if I have forgotten something important, please ask in the comments and I will add notes here.