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Raspberry Pi 5 case - Retro tower desktop

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Creation quality: 5/5 (2 votes)
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10 files Close
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Circular_Grill.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Default.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Default_Tall.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Front_.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Front__Tall.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_HDMI_Holder.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Large_Grill.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_SD_Tray.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Side_.stl
  • Raspberry_PI_5_Retro_Case_V2_Side__Tall.stl

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Publication date 2024-04-15 at 02:55
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Published to Thingiverse on: 2024-04-10 at 04:38
Design number 1923433
Xavior93

Xavior93

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3D model description

A retro style beige Raspberry Pi 5 tower case. It has a working power button, LED, and IO activity LED. The SD/microSD card can be inserted like a floppy disk to swap between different operating systems. It also has 2 HDMI ports, audio jack, and USB-C power on the rear of the case.
There is space for a 40mm exhaust fan and a 40mm or 50mm front intake fan. There is also enough space for a large cooler like the ICE tower.

#Parts needed (links at the end):
Micro SD to SD Card extender: 1
Micro HDMI to HDMI Adapter Cable: 2
-Mount USB-C Extention Cable: 1
40mm 5V fan (for exhaust): 1
Low-Profile U Cooler or ICE Tower Cooler: 1
SPST Momentary Mini Push Button: 1
5mm LED with resistor: 1
3mm LED with resistor: 1
#6-32 UNC thumbscrew (standard PC case screw): 2
#6-32 UNC screw or M3 screw (standard PC case screw): 6
various wire/header connectors (for connecting fans/LEDs/power button)
Optional:
Front 5V 40mm/50mm fan: 1 (note: I've not needed this even when overclocking the Raspberry Pi)
Noctua NF-A4x10 to replace U Cooler fan: 1

#Assembly instructions

Prepare all parts

note: any places that require screwing plastic parts together can be replaced with glue if you are way too confident/lazy.
* Print out all parts with whatever material/color you would like.
* (optional but helpful) Use a thread tap on all screw holes

Start Assembly
  • Add header pins to jumper J2 (right between USB-C connector and HDMI-0). These are for the power button.
  • Tap threads for all screws. You may be able to tap threads by forcing the screws into the holes.
  • Tap threads for push button. If you don't have a tap, you can use the push button to create the threads. You may need to use a file to help make sure the push button fits if you don't have a tap.
  • Press fit 3mm LED into the main case. Glue can be added, but the press fit should hold it fine.
  • Press fit 5mm LED into the main case. Glue can be added, but shouldn't be needed.
  • Put SD card extender in the SD card tray and attach to the case with screws or glue. This may require a long screw driver that can reach through the fan grill or a very short one that will fit in the case. This is easer to do before anything else is in the way.
  • (Optional) Attach front fan with screws
  • Screw/Glue in front . Make sure LEDs are visible and the push button does not get stuck.
  • Put HDMI adaptors in the HDMI holder, but don't mount it in the case. #### Connect wires to the GPIO Header
  • (Optional) Make a simple splitter for the U/Case fan(s).
  • The push button goes across pin5/pin6 (polarity doesn't matter).
  • The power LED goes to pin8(+) and pin14(-).
  • The GPIO LED goes to pin37(+) and pin39(-).
  • Connect all wires, connectors, and micro SD card extender to the raspberry pi before carefully placing it in the case. At this point all cables/extenders should be connected to the Raspberry pi, but not the case. (note: if using the ICE or low profile heatsinks, they should not be attached at this point) #### Finish Assembly
  • Use the brass spacers/mounts/standoffs from the cooler to screw the Raspberry PI to the case. These 4 brass pieces should now be going through the Raspberry Pi's mount points into the case.
  • Add thermal paste or the thermal pad to the processor and attach the U cooler with the included screws with spacers or shorter screws (I used screws from an old laptop).
  • Screw in the HDMI Holder. There may be a sharp bend in the cable depending on tolerances of the heatsink and fan location.
  • Screw in the USB-C extender. I trimmed some material off the plastic housing for easier fitment.
  • Attach the rear exhaust fan.
  • Slide the side on and add thumb screws #### config.txt setting
  • Enable GPIO LED and IO activity LED # Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/REE dtoverlay=act-led,gpio=19 dtoverlay=gpio-poweroff,gpiopin=14,active_low

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHN83NJ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K21HSQX
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R7QBQD
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXS86G7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTH11YX1 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V35SXMC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LDGHHS/ or any similar button
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4WXFX1/ or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4XC341
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X622RJN or (preferably) make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R9KN46J (these fans work well, but are a bit loud even at 3.3V)

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