Locomotive Traction Motor Case - 45mm Gauge - NEW Additions!

I needed power trucks for my custom made GE-32T steeplecab locomotives in both 1:32 and 1:29 scales. I needed to power Piko archbar trucks that were an exact size match for the 1:32 scale model. Therefore----
This is a traction motor case for building your own self contained high power, low amp draw, power trucks. These have a wide variety of applications and can be used on many different types of models used on 45mm track gauge. They can be used for both battery powered or track powered applications. They can also be wired for use with DCC easily. Note that this is ONLY the case assembly itself. The builder must supply the N-20 gearmotor, wire, brass bearing tube, gears, wheels and axles, and power pickup in the form of wipers or carbon brush.
These have been tested and found to be VERY powerful, especially when geared low and using small Bachmann wheels. Gear selection is up to the but I can suggest some applications based on available gear rations:
60-rpm - Ideal for very slow moving high tonnage hump yard.

100-rpm - A nice ratio for very slow industrial switching.
150-rpm - A good logging railroad speed with large wheels,
200-rpm - A good logging railroad speed with small wheels.
300-rpm - A decent road train speed with large wheels.
400-rpm - A decent road train speed with small wheels.
All of the above are purely based on the needs of the . There is also the two-motor version that can be used with even higher gear ratios for high speed trains.

The bottom line here is that these parts are all very inexpensive to buy and create motors for a fraction of what it costs to buy commercially produced power trucks. The instruction page contains sample e-Bay item numbers for the gears and motors.
SPECIAL NOTES: I have come to find that there are a wide variety of axles out there. Some are on the small side where the brass gears you will use won't grip tightly. You can score the axles with a pair of side cutters by making small indents (which will cause raised areas on their sides) where the gears will go. However, I have found that by purchasing large numbers of old used plastic wheels, many of them have splines on the axles for holding those wheels. The position of the splines varies from brand to brand, and I have no idea who has which type. There are some that place the splines exactly where you need them and also have enough sticking out for the wheels themselves, thus making them ideal for building powered axles. I save all mine for locomotives that will do pulling, while those with less than perfect splines (or none) I reserve for trolley cars and work equipment that does not have a need to pull. On these I just use a tiny drop of superglue. There is also at least one brand that has oversized axles with splines. These require extra work in that the brass gear needs to be reamed out with a drill and a metric size brass tube (it's a tiny bit larger) needs to replace the English measure one for the bearing. The advantage to these is that the Bachmann wheels will grip the axles very well as they will be extra tight. A slight reaming may have to be done and I do mine a little from each side, leaving the center of the wheel hub its original size.
It has been pointed out that in my instruction sheet (in the ) that the original e-Bay numbers are obsolete. Here is the description of the gears I use; however, e-Bay listing numbers change rapidly so any you see in the text file instructions are now invalid.
The brass gear for the axles is:
Bore - 3mm (2.97MM actual)
Teeth - 15
Thickness - 5MM
Diameter - 8.5MM
The plastic is all the same except has a D shape hole to fit the motor shaft.

All files are designed to print on a raft and using no . Folders contain both STL and GCODE file and come in singles and multiples in some cases. NOTE: This latest version had much better GCODE files for use on the Ender-3. Simply make sure that your nozzle to bed height is proper and that your e-steps are carefully set! I can't stress this enough!! All other settings are perfected - at least on my Ender-3!!