DIY Kleiner leistungsstarker Taser 400kV mit USB-C & 18650 Akku (nur ca. 6 Euro)

A simple and small taser to build yourself.

First of all, I would like to expressly point out that tinkering with batteries and high-voltage generators is dangerous and should only be done by professionals!

IMPORTANT! Do not use the Taser against people or animals. Use and reproduction are at your own risk!

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Hello makers and electronics enthusiasts,

This is a space-saving little taser that uses an 18650 battery and a 400,000V transformer.

I doubt whether the transformers actually have 400kV, but the effect is still extraordinary for the price. The spark jumps about 20mm powerfully.

The required parts cost around 6 euros in total. You may already have some of them.

Material list:

• High Voltage Generator 400kV https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_olvlfnC
• Push Buttons https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oFbtaMI
• Slide Switch https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oozZbhk
• USB-C Battery Charger Mudule https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oCC3mXM
• 18650 battery cell https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_o2eIZs6
• Capasitor (Optional) https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_on8Ys34
• Wires https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oC6Wl6O
• 2x M3x25mm Hexagon Socket Head Cap Screws https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_o2Fs1BC
• 4x Countersunk screws 2,5mm, 6mm length (optional) https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oomZdiI

You can also use a use 18650 battery of a old battery pack, like me. If you're not familiar with soldering or spot welding batteries and want to avoid this, there are already 18650 cells with wires. Just make sure they don't have integrated BMS protection. Otherwise, the torch will only work for very short periods of time.

Print Settings:

• 4 perimeter
• 0.2mm layer high
• ABS, PETG, etc… NO PLA
• 100% Infill
• Fuzzy skin (Optional)

Instructions:

You can choose between four options:

1. Normal with Screws
2. Normal without Screws
3. 5mm longer for more space at the usb section with Screws
4. 5mm longer for more space at the usb section without Screws

You can also choose whether you want a small protective shield at the front or without.

Print the parts. Don't use PLA! I recommend ABS.

First, check that both switches fit properly. If not, adjust them slightly. You'll probably have to shorten the switches a bit, as otherwise they'll stick out too far, and we don't want to risk accidental activation. Solder the switches together before gluing them in place with some hot glue. Make sure you don't impair their functionality. I've drawn a printable indicator for the slide switch so that you can always clearly see its status. You'll, of course, have to attach this to the switch before gluing it in. Make sure it matches your switch status.

Solder the wires to the battery. Do not use a BMS (protection), as otherwise the taser will not function properly. Apply some insulating tape to prevent accidental short circuits. Push the battery and high-voltage generator in from above until it will not go any further. Now you can solder the USB-C charging module. Do not use the outputs here, as they are protected by a BMS. Simply solder it to the same points as the battery. This is also where the capacitor will be attached. It can be 100uF-1000uF in size. If you want to use this, i recommend printing the 5mm larger version to have more space. Insulate the capacitor as well.

The charging board can now be glued to the base plate with hot glue. Now test the function. The spark should jump continuously for approximately 18-20mm.

Now you can screw or glue the base plate.

You can drill a small 1.5mm hole in the bottom of the base plate so you can see the charging LED through the hole.

Drill two 2mm holes through the spacer plate to precisely guide the two high-voltage wires through. The plate can be sealed with a little glue, but make sure the top plate fits snugly. Now screw the two M3 screws halfway through the top plate from the inside. Wrap one turn of rigid, uninsulated wire of approximately 0.6mm² around each turn. Carefully screw the two screws in until they are firmly seated. Shorten the wire at the screw ends to about 10mm. Now you can solder the high-voltage wires there. But shorten them first. Use shrink tubing if you have it. Fill the area near the screw heads with hot glue. Test the function. Now you can screw or glue the top plate in place. Or both :D
Last but not least, you can add some shrink tubing to the upper s. This isn't necessary, though.

That's it :)