Design is to be printed out in separate parts in the corresponding colors to eliminate the need to paint. This also allows everyone to be able to print this design regardless of what printer you are using.
I am absolutely thrilled how this project came out, and so happy I decided to re-visit my classic dry bones design, making improvements in the assembly process, balance, overall look, and adding LEDs to the eyes in the 220% version.
Fully completed he stands roughly 9 inches or 228mm
The 220% version when fully assembled stands roughly 19.75 inches or 502mm
This is one of my designs I put together over 2 years ago, completing it in October of 2022.
I am constantly learning more and adapting changes to my designs to help with printing and assembly issues that might arise. There is so much more that I can do with designs today than I could have done 2 years ago thanks to and encouragement from my Patreon ers. Constantly pushing me to do better and creating more and more designs for you wonderful ers.
I have seen a bunch of people already scaling my original dry bones design up as high as 400% larger, and have gotten a ton of over the years to make adjustments and improvements to the original design. I am happy to be releasing the design again with a bunch of improvements made from all the over the years. I will be posting the remastered design on Patreon first and this week updated the files on Cults3D to include the remastered version.
Here are some of the changes I made after reprinting Dry Bones myself on Bambu printers and assembling it to see what could and should be changed to make this better.
I re-sculpted the hands and feet of this character. Re-sculpting the hands mainly for aesthetics, as I never really liked the hands for this design and have learned to sculpt better looking ones in Fusion 360. By re-doing the hands and feet I improved the overall balance of the completed assembly. The feet were originally hollow shells, and are now solid. Giving you the option when printing to just boost up the infill to the shoes to add weight and increase balance, or use less infill and just pause the print to add sand or filler to the print to use less filament while still adding weight to these parts to ensure the balance of the final assembly.
I lengthened the connections from the legs to the shoes, as some have reported adding weights to the shoes can cause the shoes to break off when moving the completed assembly around. By lengthening the connection there is more surface area for glue to hold the two pieces together and help stop them from sliding apart.
I scaled the head down roughly 10% to increase balance and improve the overall look of the character, as the original head was a bit big for the body. This also helped when scaling the completed design out much larger. In the 220 version, the largest piece is part of the head and barely fits on the build plate of an X1C or P1 style printer.
I added water marks to the left and right-side pieces to help with assembly. I put one dot on the right-side arms, legs, feet, hands, and shell, and two dots on the left side parts. Although the legs and arms will only fit in their respective holes this should help you to easily identify which parts go were.
I also added key slots to the belly of the shell piece in order to help identify and align the belly decor pieces during assembly. This I found to be a pain when reprinting the design and made sure to improve this.
I added some damage to the top shell hex pieces. I feel like this was a good improvement to the overall look of the character. It's something I have noticed on a few other creators Dry Bones designs and wanted to include this on mine as well.
I have been dialing in a print profile to use Glow in the Dark filament, and will include the 3MF files like I have used to print out this design myself. I feel like this is the perfect project to use the glow filament and I'm thrilled how this turned out.
When scaling up the design I wanted to include the possibility of using LEDs to light up the eyes. I modified the 220 Large version of this design to create a path for the LED wires to travel from the Inside of the mouth to the eye centers. I also added holes in the Main Head piece and the back of the Head plate where magnets can be glued in place. Allowing the back head plate to be removable to get access to the LED and controls.
Special Thanks to my good friend and er Roksteady 3D, who helped me find a good supplier for LEDs on Etsy, as unfortunately the ones I was ordering on Amazon wouldnt work for this design.
Printing…
As much as I would like to eliminate the need for ers, I was unable to adjust the design enough to remove the need for on the following pieces. The bottom shell decor Head and Tail pieces, the Shell Trim Pieces, both legs and the right arm, will all need .
When Printing with Glow in the Dark filament please keep in mind that it is semitransparent. I added 4 walls to my basic settings in order to ensure a more efficient Glow effect and hide the infill of each part.
Other than that, there really isn't too much else to note here. All the parts are oriented to the build plate in the correct positions and should be relatively easy to print.
Assembly…
Should be fairly simple. Dry fit everything in place before adding glue.
I highly recommend PLA Gloop, if you can get your hands on it.
PLA Gloop Website
Starbond Adhesives make a good CA or super glue alternative at a lower price point. I recommend the Medium or Thick formula. I would defiantly pick up some Accelerator if your planning on using the Thick formula.
Overall, the assembly should be easier to understand which part goes where, as now there is one dot marking the right-side pieces and 2 dots marking the left. The bottom belly decor is keyed eliminating the possibility of confusion when attaching these pieces to the respective hub.
Using the LED head in the 220 version. Be sure to orient the magnets correctly before glueing them in place. I recommend using the Starbond CA glue to set the magnets in place, as PLA Gloop doesn’t stick as well to magnets.
To attach the LED controller to the top of the mouth in the Main Head piece is used some peel and stick Velcro and just taped the wires in place so that the LEDs and controller could easily be switched out if so desired.
Suggested Filaments
Suggested Fillaments
Duramic Glow in the Dark PLA
Duramic Matte Black PLA
Duramic Matte Gray
Bambu Matte Late Brown
Esun Matte Light Blue
Ziro Transparent yellow for LED eye centers
12mm x 3mm Magnets
Velcro peel and stick
LEDs used for the Eyes
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to find out what I designs I am currently working on
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Thanks for checking out my design.
