hi Jinja, thanks for making this! works great so far. Im reprinting in a sturdier material now -- will post pics when that's done.
some accessories I would love to see are:
a cover of some sort to protect the fronts of the modules during transport.
a way to quickly attach or detach case blocks from each other quickly without needing to disassemble (to make transport easier and provide flexibility for the layout)
I updated the files days ago but it looks like I forgot to reply here. "Added caseDeep4uiS_N_v1_0hp_right.stl. Added intellijel and pulp-logic 1U blanks to blanks.zip, post-fixed with I and P respectively."
Enjoy!
Hi Mehalias! You can find the blanks in blanks.zip. You'll need blank04.stl for the 4hp blank, which fits the breakout holes. I just leave the breakout holes open to be honest.
Hi namrith_, B, N and WB stands for Breakout, No breakout and Wide Breakout. Breakout is what I call the 4HP hole on the side of the case that can fit a 4HP power supply or any other non-performant 4HP module. So B means it has 4HP holes on the side. N means it doesn't, and WB means there's a widened 4HP hole for pesky modules that exceed beyond their 4HP bounds.
There's no explicit 6U or 7U, but you can make a 6U by bolting two 3U's together and a 7U by bolting a 3U and 4U together. Check out the photos of the builds people have posted to see various examples. A single 78hp 3U row (3x26hp pieces left/middle/right) of PLA weighs just under 500g. That's half the cost of a 1kg reel of PLA filament.
Hope that helps!
Thanks a lot, also because i dont have a 3d printer at home do you know of any cheap 3d printing companies i can order from ; i have found some but im thinking if you know anything else
Unfortunately, 3D printing companies don't use cheap FDM printers like hobbyists do. Using a 3D printing company to do 3D prints is really expensive, even when you get "cheap" PLA. If you're not printing it yourself, it's no longer a cheap option. If you're not interested in getting into 3d printing but still want to DIY, I bet there's some wood options out there!
The original idea was a eurorack suitcase i can make for around 120 euros from a used suitcase, but yeah i get what you said about the 3d printing companies.
Im probably gonna do the suitcase idea but dude your build here and the idea with the block that connect is awesome, thanks anyways hope this gets more popularity !
I thought you were going to pay someone to print them for you. If a friend is printing them for free, let them know it will use approx 350g of filament.
Added a deep version of the 4U case, the new models are in caseDeep4uIS.zip
I've tested that the slice okay, but I haven't printed them. Let me know if you have any problems, and a picture of your setup! Enjoy!
Any recommendations for someone who wants to try to get these printed online via a 3d printing website and then shipped to them? Is it likely to fit together well, or need some tweaking that I won't easily be able to do because I just the .stl files my setting, and materials I want etc, and they ship it to me without any troubleshooting if the fit is a bit off? I found craftcloud3d.com that gets you quotes from thousands of 3d printing providers and then sends the order to you. Got a great price for some random other stuff I ordered that I'm waiting on and if that comes out well then probably I'll try to use the same company that made those.
Could use a recommendation also if PLA will come out good, or should I try for a different material and which infill to select and any other settings that I might need to communicate as someone who knows very little about 3d printing.
It will work, but when I checked last it will be expensive. It will end up being only slightly cheaper than buying a regular case. PLA works. I wouldn't recommend using an online service for this design. :(
This is a great design, if not the best I've used print wise. Every portion is thought out nicely and there are a ton of quality of life things that "just work" e.g. the nut inserts on the inside of the case. Currently still printing my skiff, will post some shots afterwards.
I love the inclusion of the 4U case - I am curious if there are plans or if it's possible to get a dedicated 1U rail that is separate from the 3U? Have been toying with the idea of a 2x 1U + 3U. This would emulate the Intellijel pallet cases wherein you're able to get dedicated mults, i/o, power, on a dedicated header rail, and your typical 4U combo underneath that. Maybe there's STLs in the current project that would work, but doesn't appear so.
Hi, I'm glad you're enjoying the design! I look forward to shots of your work, I love seeing what people can do with the case.
I considered a 1U row but the design was very cramped, I worry about air flow, so I don't think I want to create and that design.
The 1U options available to you are the 4U case (case4uIS) and the 3x1U segment that fits alongside 3U modules in the case3uS case (That's the green print in the above images).
You could bolt two 4U cases together so you have two 1U rows next to each other, but of course that means you also have two 3U rows, so doesn't match the Intellijel case that you're aiming for.
Very good way to prototype rack. The Behringer modular power supply fits neatly in the back slot saving space. Very neat and professional looking result.
I'm really enjoying this case design a lot, thanks again for making it and for continuing to expand on the designs! If you don't mind I actually have an idea for a new format that I wanted to run past you? You've probably heard of Look Mum No Computer's Kosmo format? It uses Eurorack power, so it's already fairly compatible in spirit, it's really just bigger with big jacks and knobs. It would be great if I could have a row of Kosmo in my 3D printed rack too! Here is Sam's description of the Kosmo format design: https://www.lookmumnocomputer.com/modular, which is basically just 20cm tall front s with 10mm for wooden rails. Because of the wooden rails, he's a bit up in the air with hole spacing, but I guess I could just order a few of his PCB / sets and take that as a guide to see whether he keeps the holes in roughly the same area anyway? Initially I thought this wouldn't be much of a problem, because the rails just have to be farther apart, but the build plate size of my printer is 21x21cm, so that's not happening as one print either! It would probably have to be 2 parts connected in the same way that the middle and side parts connect? Anyway, it was just an idea that I thought could be interesting for you too, since the DIY low price Kosmo stuff seems very compatible in spirit with your 3D printed Eurorack case design.
I love this idea. I'd need to know the distance of the center of the M3 bolt holes from the top/bottom of the 20cm . I can't find any specs like these Eurorack ones https://doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm. If the front is 20cm high, then the height of the print would only need to be a couple millimeters bigger than that, so should fit on your print bed. One minor problem is the width. Kosmo is multiples of 25mm, where Eurorack is multiples of 5.08mm. It's not a huge problem, I'll just stick with Eurorack's 5.08mm so you can bolt your Kosmo and Eurorack rows together. There'll be small gaps at the ends of your Kosmo row when you fill it up. Personally the non compatible jack sizes would annoy me, so I don't think I'll be doing this myself. Oh, no mention of how deep the modules need to go, you need to find that out too.
Oh, that's really great that you're interested in the idea! That makes the whole Kosmo thing viable for me, since I have no woodworking tools or skills whatsoever! And LMNC makes some really interesting modules, would love to have some of them in my rack! Cool that you think it might fit on the build plate! The only worry I have is that it might lift off the bed with such big parts! Not much space for a brim! But definitely worth trying! I actually found the precise specs after a bit of digging! https://lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/t/kosmo-specification/896?page=4 It's all there, hole specs, sizes, depth. The depth is not a problem because the modules are bigger so more stuff fits on the boards and modules don't need to be that deep. The deepest module around seems to be 50mm which fits fine with your current depths! And something that would be really cool is if there was also a way of mounting a Eurorack power module on the same row, like an adapter similar to the AE Modular to Eurorack adapter (https://www.tangiblewaves.com/store/p49/AE_modular_Eurorack_adapter_frame_12U.html)? Or a 4HP Kosmo height middle part with rails at Eurorack distance - maybe the simplest option for modelling? That would make powering the system so much easier, I could just put in another Row power!
By the way, the non-compatible jack sizes don't really bug me much, I actually run my Eurorack together with an AE modular rack and using IO modules isn't that bothersome. The incompatibility between AE and Euro runs deeper since AE runs at 0-5V, so the IO modules are a must! Kosmo & Euro seem fairly similar electrically - Euro should be able to handle everything Kosmo throws out and vice versa! So, it really only needs Mono minijack to jack cables and I have a bunch of those flying around to record my Eurorack already! Just one more cable type to keep around! I'm really happy you're open to this idea, building Kosmo modules is going to be a fun DIY project!
Thanks for the specs, good find. I can leave the 4hp Eurorack breakout space in the top and bottom of the kosmo design. That way you can run cables between the kosmo and eurorack rows that are bolted together. You will also be able to put your eurorack power module into that slot, like this... https://cults3d.sitegames.net/en/3d-printing/expandable-eurorack-case-blocks
...as long as it's alongside kosmo modules that aren't too deep. Another option is to run a power ribbon from your eurorack row into your kosmo row.
Oh, if you left the 4HP breakout space that would work fine too! Great idea! That would make it easy to integrate. I use the breakout space for power on the top row of my rack too, always found it a neat feature of your design! Thanks again for considering this!
Thanks, these are great stls! I need to make myself a small 4U system as I have a few wide Intellijel 1U format modules that won't work well with the 1U+1U+1U. Any chance of getting a set of 4U models or a boltable one? The gaps on the top/bottom of the existing 3U pieces should make it easy to route power through. Awesome work, btw, these are beautiful models.
I do intend to make a 3U+1U version. Ideally I'd like to make the Intellijel and Pulp Logic versions fit together so a single 4U system could both formats. One of the rails would not align of course. How wide are your 1U's and are they Intellijel or Pulp Logic?
I've got all intellijel sized 1U modules, and the widest ones I have are a few 28hp and a 30hp (1uO_c). I could certainly try to stack them all as close as possible but having the extra row above the 3U is a much better workflow for my setup.
I've designed the 4u case. I've added a render to the pics above. I've not ed the models yet, I'm printing them out to make sure they fit together and don't have any problems. Maximum a couple more days, maybe sooner.
Hi Dashbad. That's awesome that the threaded rails work, glad to hear it. When I do the 1U, it will actually be 4U (3U+1U). I haven't done it yet as I don't have any 1U modules myself to test it, but I'm pretty sure it will work, so I might give it a go this weekend. I'll try to create a unified 1U row that s Intellijel & Pulp Logic & sideways 3U. So you can create a bespoke case to mix and match modules without wasting space. I'd love to see your case, share some pics of your build!
That would be awesome. 4U would be ideal or a boltable 1U. I added my make with a couple of photos.
One other improvement I thought you could add would be a recess on the bottom of the case. I am using a power distribution board and it is sitting on the "bumps" where the sections of the case slot together, which reduces the depth of the case by quite a bit. The Expert Sleepers interfaces are 50mm deep so they need to sit to the side of the distribution board to fit.
There is a deeper version of the case that would let you pack more stuff behind the Expert Sleepers 50mm modules, but I'd prefer to do what you did and make the case wide enough so there's space for the ES modules on the sides, beyond your distribution board. You can always go wider still, insert another 26hp! :) Your case is looking great.
Are you planning to add side s to align these up as 6U etc? I love the idea and tried to model something similar but my modeling skills and prototyping patience gave up quicker than that. So kudos on great design.
Hi GraciousGrendel. It's totally possible to make a shallow 50mm deep version. I do intend on doing that at some point, it's on my list of things to do!
I have already purchased the STL's and printed 104Hp worth of rack space, thank you so much for making this easy! I am wondering if it would be possible to have a skiff depth version (50mm) created, doesnt have to have to 4Hp side ports if that's not possible? Hell, if you designed this in Sketchup and dont mind sending me the skp's I edit it myself and send you the files to add to the package :)
UPDATE 2021-03-16: Added case3uS.zip that contains a slimmer case without the 6mm border at the top and bottom. So the modules are closer together when bolting rows together.
There are some new pics comparing case3u with the new case3uS (S for slim)
I intend to add more case options so you can have the 6mm border around the outside of your multi row case, but avoid the 6mm borders between the rows of your case.
Nope I mean they fall into the main rail, not the small 4hp. If they’re not screwed, sometimes they fall and I need to take everything apart to put em back if too many are gone.
We should print holes strip, I have it working but the design where not made with eurorack in mind, and placing one strip next to the other misses the count for holes, losing 1hp
Great news about the extruder calibration.
The nuts falling into the rail space is annoying when it happens, but there needs to be a large space for the bolt to protrude and I wanted to long bolts. I have a technique where I push the nut into the hole and then hold it in place by stabbing a small screw driver through its hole. Once I slide the nut away from the hole it stays in the rail. I don't know why yours are not sliding easily, mine slide around freely. Maybe the 0.1mm gain on corners and holes causes it? I'm not sure what that is, perhaps that's a slicer setting you can tweak? Ask https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/, maybe someone knows how to fix that.
After calibration I didn’t have to file, all is good.
I noticed that my printer is still doing a little pumoed area around corners and holes, so it gains like 0,1mm there.
My concern is that sliding nuts fall easy into the rail space and I don’t get why since they’re not sliding that easily
@McCallister, my PC is up and running. About to look into creating some calibration STLs. Did the extruder calibration help at all? Thinking back to your original prints, how many mm's would you guesstimate you had to file away?
I could make a shallower case. The reason I chose an internal depth of 67mm is because I wanted 50mm modules to fit, like the Disting EX. With the 4hp breakout slots occupied, that reduces the internal depth to more of a skiff 35mm depth. So I thought that was a good balance that could accommodate most modules. I had a request for an even deeper case for DIY modules, so I added a case with 84mm internal depth. I understand the desire to have a thinner case at the expense of limiting your module options, so I'll add that to my list of tasks. I could remove the 4hp breakout slots and reduce the case by 20mm.
Calibration has worked with the test cube, now printing just the 0hp right for confirming.
Would it be possible to have less deep modules? There are modules that have plenty of distance between them and the power supply. A couple cm less would still fit in many case
Even if that helps, no two printers will produce identical results. When I've fixed my PC (memory failed and bricked my windows install) I'll come up with a calibration solution. I'll keep the female part size constant and provide a few options for the male part. Make a small calibration print with all of the male sizes so that you can discover the size that best suits your printer. Until I get that done your best option is calibrating your extruder.
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hi Jinja, thanks for making this! works great so far. Im reprinting in a sturdier material now -- will post pics when that's done.
some accessories I would love to see are:
Know if any of these exist or are in the works?