Fishing H block marker float - SMALL - HBM1 - Repère d'amorçage

Immediately marks your fishing spot. It automatically adjusts to the right depth, so all you have to do is drop the weight under the H-maker and the line will automatically unwind underneath until the sinker reaches the bottom. This way, the H-shapped marker is always set at the right depth.
Personally, I use these little h-blocks to mark my spots, locate obstacles or mark important changes in depth when float-tube fishing.

Size : small - 60mmx55mm

If you prefer the LARGE H BLOCK model

What about buoyancy of my H Block Marker 3D model?

You're probably wondering about the buoyancy of this printed model... well, many commercially available models sink as fast as a stone, in less than 30 minutes... just read the reviews and comments to find out.A tiny hole is enough.
There is, however, one inescapable principle: a floating object must always be coated, painted or varnished before being thrown into the water.
So, as you can see from the picture, my H block is varnished and floats high above the water.

My solution to this principe...

Post-print processing and finishing:

The H Block needs to be varnished to fill any holes, reinforces the hardness and guarantees watertightness. As a reminder, 3 coats of varnish are recommended as a finish. It's so easy to do. A can of gloss or matt acrylic varnish costs less than 3 euros ;-)

Printing test protocol

I own several 3D printer models, so my models shown in the GIF videos and/or photos (made from the STL files you're about to ), have been deliberately printed since the test phases on an original ENDER 3 PRO, just enhanced with a BLTOUCH and a PEI plate, to prove that my models :
1/ are 3D printable
2/ are suitable for most people's FDM 3D printers, and don't need the latest 3D printer technology to be perfect.
If the print is excellent on an ender 3, it will also be excellent on your printer.

My models are designed for FDM 3D printing. They are designed to meet the specific needs of fishermen. They are designed/printed/tested several times in real fishing situations until optimal results are obtained.

Don't leave without taking a look at my
FISHING FLOATS Collection

In absolute , to be watertight and solid, the walls must not be less than 1.2 mm thick, with a minimum of 3 layers.

Infill: 0 to 5% maximum (0% on picture for small model)
Filament: PETG is both strong and flexible. It's perfect for floats. ABS. PLA, if you like betting!
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Layer height: 0.12mm to 0.20mm
Slicer: the float must be printed flat with .
Here's how I do it, you'll get just as good results with your favourite settings!